Showing posts with label Activity holidays. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Activity holidays. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 6

Riding the tidal bore on the Gironde! : Mascaret


It is already a year ago when I last wrote about the Dordogne/Gironde Tidal Bore, or the Mascaret, as it is known, and now the season is b back when surfers come from all over the world to dare to surf the Mascaret on the Dordogne and Gironde Rivers.

What can be greater fun than surfing a wave on a river -- riding the wave -- sometimes for as long as 20 minutes? The wave may not be as high as Teahupoo or the Cortez Banks but nowhere in the ocean can you ride one wave for this long.

As this event has become so popular -- and as the surfers of the Mascaret would much prefer to have the wave all to themselves, rather than share it with thousands others - who may not be very good and simply clutter up the space, or who come with their wake boards or their kayaks or even their pesky jet skis, the cognoscenti now keep the best spots to catch the waves at their best a closely guarded secret. And who can blame them?



But -- if you want to come take on the challenge of joining the true lovers of the sport of chasing the tidal bores of the world, here is the time table for the rest of August -- the dates, coefficient of the waves to the tides (close to and over 100 is regarded as the most desirable to ride) and the time of day when the wave will be at its strongest. The spot is on one of the best areas of the Gironde, namely in front of St Pardon:

date -- coef at time --- at ST PARDON
Friday 1 -- 94 at 16h57
Saturday 2 -- 99 at 17h46
Sunday 3 -- 100 at 18h28
Monday 4 -- 95 at 19h06
Tuesday 5 -- 86 at 19h38
. . . . . . . . .
Saturday 16 -- 80 at 16h34
Sunday 17 -- 88 at 17h15
Monday 18 -- 92 at 17h54
Tuesday 19 -- 93 at 18h32
Wednesday 20 -- 90 at 19h08
Thursday 21 -- 84 at 19h42
. . . . . . . . .
Friday 29 -- 85 at 15h57
Saturday 30 -- 96 at 16h38
Sunday 31 -- 101 at 17h22


The mascaret is an exceptional phenomenon which occurs mainly in certain river estuaries during a time when there are spring tides. There are roughly 60 known such sites in the world where this happens. It is also known as a tidal bore. In France this only happens in the Aquitaine -- on the Dordogne, Garonne et Gironde Rivers -- probably, it is believed, because human intervention causing a change of flow of the rivers, for example on the Seine River, prevents mascarets from forming.
In perfect conditions ( a strong coefficient of tide, river flow and low water levels0, the rising tide against the contrary flow of the river causes the start of a series of small waves which can grow into waves of up to 3 metres under the best of conditions. This collection of waves -- about ten at a time, separated by about ten metres, travel at roughly 15 to 30 km per hour. They travel over a distance of more than 150km after which they start dissipating where the current and tides are at their weakest.

The Etymology of the word Mascaret: A Gascony word dating back to the 16th century, boeuf tacheté meaning 'a leaping or galloping cow'.

Other Bores can be found in Canada, China, South America -- the bore on the Amazon River is probably the most spectacular -- and of course, on the Severn in the United Kingdom.

Before the interference on the rivers by man, there were also mascarets on the Charente and the Seine -- where, it is said, the waves reached over 4 metres in height in the middle of the river and up to 7 metres on the river banks!, but today they have all disappeared and only remain on the Garonne, Dordogne and Gironde.



In the Aquitaine, the best sites for the Mascaret are:

- Gironde : behind the island of Margaux (50 cm),
- Garonne : behind the island of d'Arcins, rive right bank (80 cm); between Langoiran and Podensac (2.5 m),
- Dordogne :at Saint-Pardon (2.5 m) a few kilometres from Libourne.

Where best to see them?
**at Saint-Pardon : 45 min before low tide at Libourne.
**at Podensac : 2 hours after low tide at Bordeaux
**at the bridge of d'Arcins : 1 hour after low tide at Bordeaux.











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  • Stéphane Spittael : an artist, observer and commentator




    " L'apprenti sorcier " 90 x 120 cm Acrylique sur toile 2006


    Since I arrived in the Dordogne Perigord, I have often remarked on my disappointment in the dearth of good artists in the area -- and I am not talking about the zillion 'artists' that would naturally result in a region, where the very nature of the scenery and architecture, beauty and inspiration offers anyone with a paintbrush, a canvas or block of water colour paper the opportunity and material aplenty. I am talking about good artists...

    And then -- every now and then, I come across someone whose work speaks to me, someone with talent, yes, but also with originality, with a message, with soul.

    Last weekend, in the beautiful natural stone Salle de Mariages of Limeuil, I literally stumbled over the threshold of the door and discovered Stephane Spittael's work.

    Spittael was born in 1967 in Lille in the North of France. His biography tells me that he holds a "Diplôme National Supérieur en Expression Plastique", which he obtained at the Ecole Supérieure des Beaux-Arts of Tourcoing in 1992, that he is a member of the "La Maison Des Artistes" and also "Adhérent à la société des auteurs".

    But it is his five year sojourn in the island of Reunion that seems to mostly have inspired his current exhibition in Limeuil -- not the lush and fertile Henri Rousseau-inspired jungle scenery that one would expect but, on the contrary, a harsh and devastated world which more resembles the aftermath of a slash and burn assault -- dry landscapes where the people are dry stick figures who appear to be finishing off the devastation or indeed being completely overpowered by it. The message of a need for conservation hits you right between the eyes and is so strong and so effective that I cannot believe anyone can walk out of the exhibition without being at least more aware than they were when they entered it. And yet -- and yet, when you look a little closer, there is, along with the subtle touch of humour -- albeit somewhat sardonic -- somewhere on the stark canvas, a blade of green grass, a green leaf - a touch of life and growth still remaining and the lingering message is one of hope.


    " L'Arbre de vie " 165 x 100 cm Acrylique sur toile 2005


    The Exhibition in Limeuil is on until 20 August -- Do Not Miss It, whatever you do!:

    Salle des mariages
    Limeuil 24260 Dordogne
    tous les jours de 11h à 13h
    et de 14h à 19h

    But should you not make it there, his next exhibition is from 6 to 21 September 2008, at

    Château des Izards
    Coulounieix-Chamiers 24660
    (Périgueux )
    Dordogne




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  • Wednesday, July 30

    Pottery exhibition at Limeuil





    On Saturday and Sunday, 26 and 27 July, the Aquitaine potters once again put on their superb annual exhibition of the local talent.

    This year a total of 50 carefully selected potters came to the water's edge of the confluence of the vezere and the Dordogne rivers and there, under the trees, the beautifully colourful umbrellas and the crystal clear blue summer sky, there was a feast for the eye.

    This year it was Spain that provided the inspiration for the exhibition - and five potters from Spain were invited to participate.

    As well as this huge selection, there was also a demonstration and hands-on workshop for children in the afternoons, and adults could try their hand at coil building and even throwing on the potters wheel.

    I was delighted to meet Michael Kay and Sue, and when I got myself a delicious plate of Poulet Basquaise from one of the food stalls for lunch, Michael kindly invited me to join him at the potters' lunch table under the trees where we shared our food and wine and had fascinating conversations with the rest of the potters.

    I could of course not resist temptation and came away with the best item on the exhibition -- an exquisite bowl of Mathieu Robert from Ponce sur Loire - but there were quite a few more items that I could easily have brought home -- alas! they will have to wait for next year.......







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  • Friday, January 25

    Protected nature : Eco Tourism in the Aquitaine : A hundred reasons why this is the best place in Europe to come spend your Summer Holiday in 2008!


    On a wonderful site, Aquitaine - The South at its best which is about this region, there is an excellent article on Eco-Tourism in France. France has always been at the forefront of eco-tourism and managing the fine balance between being one of the most visited and popular tourist destinations of Europe, and preserving the exquisite nature and unique sites that make it so. Aquitaine, France’s third-biggest region, has a multitude of protected natural zones and offers a great variety of sites dedicated to green tourism.


    Starting with… the ocean blue! The Atlantic runs for 250 km along the western side of Aquitaine, with endless beaches of fine sand.

    Surfers, cyclists, enthusiasts of thalassotherapy and ornithology can all enjoy the sea air in all seasons. The MIACA (an inter-ministerial commission for the development of the Atlantic coastline) has protected this area since 1967.

    Heading east from the ocean, you cross the immense pine forest running from the Medoc down to the Landes and the Basque Country, covering a triangle of land 150 km wide and 200 km long.

    It is in this area that lies the Landes de Gascogne Regional Nature Park, and in it, the Maison de la Nature of the Bay of Arcachon (including Le Teich Ornithological Park), the three sites of the Ecomuseum in Marquèze, Moustey and Luxey, and a large number of nature reserves.

    Educational workshops, rides along the cycling tracks or sailing on the natural lakes are all good ways of discovering this area’s many riches.

    Another big “green” area is the Dordogne forestland. In the north of this département, Green Périgord is home to the Aquitaine section of the Périgord-Limousin Regional Nature Park.
    Here you will find a multitude of tree species, including oak, the preferred home of the famous Périgord truffles. Prehistoric Man probably enjoyed this delicacy 400,000 years ago…

    Much further south, don your snowshoes and climb the peaks of the Pyrenees. This is the realm of hiking, fishing and winter sports. Certain plant and animal species often find their last refuge in the Pyrenees National Park.

    Mountains are of course the place where water starts to flow… Torrents - ideal for fishing and white-water sports – which then become rivers and canals. A whole network of inland waterways provide an invitation for barge trips.

    In both the Pyrenees and the Périgord area, natural caves display the underground riches of Aquitaine.

    Lastly, we should not forget the presence all over Aquitaine of parks and gardens, both contemporary and traditional.

    So many sites to discover; so many ways of visiting the beautiful region of Aquitaine.




    Looking for accommodation in the Aquitaine? Look no further:
  • An idyllic stay in a French chateau on the banks of the Dordogne River

  • A beautiful apartment in an historic stone building centrally located in Bordeaux

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  • Sunday, January 20

    Finally: In full preparation to walk the Camino!




    "This is the way of peace:
    Overcome evil with good,
    and falsehood with truth,
    and hatred with love."[/i][/b]
    ....Peace Pilgrim





    Why make this pilgrimage?

    I have always had a yearning to do things that challenge me -- to take the road less travelled, to explore the unknown territory. Deciding to walk the Camino de Santiago-- making the pilgrimage to Santiago Compostela, is not taking a road less travelled -- on the contrary -- thousands walk this road every year! Nor is it unknown territory -- it is probably the best known pilgrimage of all time. But for me it will be -- finally taking on this challenge that I had set myself several years ago will be the road less travelled and an unknown territory in my personal life in every sense.`


    Father Frank de Gouveia said:

    Every major religion has a tradition and practice of pilgrimage.

    Pilgrimage is a ritual journey, either alone or in a group, with the aim of achieving purification, perfection or salvation; a religious experience in which a series of bonds are established between a place of this world and a higher sphere, between an individual traveller and a community, between a flesh-and-blood pilgrim and he who is reborn, purified by the consummation of his goal. These bonds are what distinguish pilgrimage from other types of journey or travel.

    Pilgrimage requires a sacred journey, a sacred place and a sacred goal. The sacred place may take many forms – a tree, a spring, a mountain, or a place where holy relics are revered. On the journey – a metaphor of earthly life – a personal transformation is initiated and effected through a series of rites that culminate in the moment of arrival. Here, his goal attained, the pilgrim is reborn, a new man.


    All the above refers to pilgrims in the traditional sense. Of course, many people do the camino for other reasons – they may be keen walkers who want to do a truly long walk, they may want to walk on Roman roads or see famous places, they may want to find themselves or ponder the meaning of life and their place in it. They may be religiously motivated or simply look for a spiritual experience. They may hope to find the reason for their need to make the pilgrimage along the way....

    Pilgrims have been travelling to Santiago de Compostela on foot or horseback for over a thousand years. (The Bishop of Le Puy, who went there in AD 950, was one of the first). Some say the cult of the spiritual traveller along the path existed even earlier as the way led to Cape Finisterre the end of the known world.

    The route to Santiago was a Roman trade-route. It was nicknamed by travellers la voje ladee, the Milky Way. It was the road under the stars. The pale arm of the Milky Way that stretched out and pointed the way to the edge of the known world : to Cape Finisterre, and Santiago --- far away under the mists and Atlantic skies of Galicia, woods and water in a Celtic landscape of menhirs and lost gods that exert an appeal that is infinitely pre Christian.

    Its 800 kilometers from the Saint Jean Pied de Port in the foothills of the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela in the western reaches of Galicia have changed little in that time. For although sections of it have now become modern tarred roads and many of the refuges and other accommodation set up by religious orders along the way to minister to the needs of pilgrims have long since disappeared, the Camino still passes through the same villages, crosses the same rivers, visits the same chapels, churches, cathedrals and other monuments as did the path taken by our predecessors in centuries gone by.

    At the height of its popularity in the eleventh and twelfth centuries over half a million people a year are said to have made the pilgrimage from different parts of Europe, the majority of them from France.

    The high point of the pilgrimage occurred between the years 1000 and l500 but although numbers dwindled after that, due to the Reformation and other, political, factors, the stream of pilgrims making the trudge westwards to the far reaches of Galiciain north-west Spain never completely dried up and in the late twentieth century is making something of a comeback.

    Several thousand people walk the Way of St James (Sant' Iago) every year, whether from the Pyrenees, from different parts of France or from even further afield: it is not uncommon, even nowadays, to meet Swiss, German, Belgian or Dutch pilgrims, for example, who have set out from home to make the entire journey on foot. The Cathedral authorities in Santiago maintain a register of pilgrims and in 1991 recorded a total of 7274 travelling on foot, bicycle or horseback (compared with 5760 in 1989, the year of the Pope's August visit there, and 4918 in 1990).


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  • Home stay in a chateau: On the way of the Camino



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  • Wednesday, November 14

    Eurostar re-launched at St Pancras, London! A Big day for Anglo-Franco tourism!




    The Big Day has arrived! 14 November 2007, and the new terminal for the Eurostar train service at St Pancras in London has opened -- bringing with it a range of improvements and special services, one of which is a good 20 minute reduction on the London-Paris route!


    For more details, read the blog entry of 10 November 2007 and by all means, click on the link above for the Eurostar website -- it is impressive -- and sure the whet your appetite! You can also subscribe to their newsletter by simply filling in your email address at the bottom -- and it is well worth your while as I see there are already very exciting special offers available in fares!

    What a pity they did not think about combining the first Paris-London-Paris trip with the midnight appearance of the 2007 Beaujolais Nouveau -- a few hours and it could have been the event of the decade!.........But -- nothing stops you from booking your ticket straight-away and coming down to the Dordogne anyway to come marvel at the exquisite autumn colours in this region, enjoy an excellent meal of foie gras, confit de canard and pommes sarladaise, and of course, a bottle of 2007 Beaujolais Nouveau!

    See you there!


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  • Tuesday, November 13

    Picnics in the Dordogne



    The regret with which too many tourists leave this wonderful and diverse part of La Belle France, is that they had not planned on enough time in the region. Not only are there a myriad of sites to visit -- each in its own right a must-see --, castles to admire, restaurants to enjoy, bastides to wander around in, caves to explore, there is the best cycling to be had (according to recent seasoned cyclists from Canada and visitors to Chateau Lalinde: "streets (forgive the pun) ahead of anything that the overcrowded Tuscany has to offer!"), the best hiking and trailing to be done, golfing, canoeing, hot air ballooning........ the list goes on, but then there are also those hidden little treasures -- the ones one rarely plan for, but which, if you are lucky, just happens...........

    Yes! One of the great joys for me of living in such a beautiful countryside as this, are the picnics! Any day, any time, any occasion is a good one on which to have a picnic -- there are so many little spots and perfect little places to throw down the blanket, open the champagne, unpack the basket and enjoy communing with nature.
    And when better than on a late autumn day? Who better with than a couple of good friends from Nantes? And where better than at the foot of the imposing Beynac castle with the majestic Dordogne River flowing past below and a range of forests and other chateaux to admire?


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  • Wednesday, October 31

    Keeping fit and healthy in the Dordogne : From Pilates to Fencing



    If you are looking for an activity holiday or simply the most enjoyable and most efficient way to get and keep fit and healthy, there cannot be too many forms of exercise that fit the bill better than Pilates and Fencing - and especially when the instructors are as good -- and as charming as Robyn and Patrick!

    So, what exactly IS this Pilates phenomenon?

    It is an Exercise in Balance : "I must be right. Never an aspirin. Never injured a day in my life. The whole country, the whole world, should be doing my exercises. They'd be happier.", said Jo Pilates in 1965, at the age of 86.

    Well, maybe not the whole world, but certainly much of it is experiencing the explosion in demand for Pilates, a method of exercise and physical movement designed to stretch, strengthen, and balance the body. With systematic practice of specific exercises coupled with focused breathing patterns, Pilates has proven itself invaluable not only as a fitness endeavour itself, but also as an important adjunct to professional sports training and physical rehabilitation of all kinds.

    Widely embraced among dancers for years, the exercises--"elephant," "swan", the language--"pull navel to spine, find the core connection! and breeaaaathe," and the look--bright-eyed, refreshed, buoyant-without-necessarily-sweating, is popping up in fitness classes, physical therapy offices, corporate retreats, luxury spas and wellness centers across the country. Another fad? A cult for the over-privileged? Think again. With the aging of our world population and the increasing trend toward mindful, moderate health practices, Pilates is more likely to find itself with a wait list at the YMCA, and in your local public schools--shaping the fitness ideals of our next generation. Practiced faithfully, Pilates yields numerous benefits. Increased lung capacity and circulation through deep, healthy breathing is a primary focus. Strength and flexibility, particularly of the abdomen and back muscles, coordination-both muscular and mental, are key components in an effective Pilates program. Posture, balance, and core strength are all heartily increased. Bone density and joint health improve, and many experience positive body awareness for the first time. Pilates teaches balance and control of the body, and that capacity spills over into other areas of one's life.

    If you are like myself - someone who hates aerobics with a passion, finds doing the circuit in gym beneficial and satisfying -- but utterly boring, but rrealises that a good form of exervice is absolutely crucial to keeping fit, supple and healthy, then look no further: the day you discover Pilates, a new world will open up for you!

    And now Pilates has come to the Dordogne as well! Robyn Haigh, from Lalinde,is a well established Pilates teacher in Lalinde as well as in Eymet and the larger Dordogne Perigord. She works both with groups and in one-on-one classes.


    And Fencing? Did that activity not go out with the Three Musketeers?

    No! Not at all! Fencing, or l'Escrime, became very popular again in France during the last few years -- especially after the 2004 Olympic Games when the French won the most gold medals for fencing.
    Fencing is a is a fantastic way to improve balance, co-ordination and flexibility - and it's great fun as well!

    There are three types of fencing - epee, foils and sabre.
    In all three, weapons are wired electronically to record when a hit is scored.
    In foils and epee, points can only be scored by the point of the weapon hitting. In the case of the foil, only a hit on the torso counts. In the epee, the whole body is the target. In sabre, points can also be scored by hitting the arms and head.
    As well as the three different types of sword, fencers also need protective clothing, including a wire mesh face guard.
    A metallic over jacket is also worn. This is placed over the scoring area and conducts electricity. Every time a valid hit is scored a lamp lights up on the scoring equipment.

    Fencing originated as the practice of swordsmanship to prepare men for duels and warfare. A fencing match is depicted on an Egyptian temple that dates to about 1190 B.C. and the ancient Babylonians, Greeks, Persians, and Romans all had some form of fencing. The use of armour during the Middle Ages made swordsmanship virtually obsolete. The broadsword was used against armour, but only as a crude hacking device requiring sheer strength rather than skill. By making armour obsolete, the development of firearms ironically brought swordplay back into prominence during the 15th century. Soldiers once again had to acquire some skill with the sword, and fencing also emerged as a pastime for gentlemen. Fencing masters organized guilds, which taught various moves to initiates while protecting them as trade secrets from outsiders.


    Fencing as an exercise based on speed and skill began when the longer, lighter rapier was developed in Italy during the 16th century. Because of the rapier's length, opponents had to fight at a distance and quick but controlled lunges, attacking the enemy with the point of the sword, replaced cruder hacking techniques. But the rapier wasn't a good defensive weapon, so the fencer often had to use his gauntleted left hand to parry his opponent's thrusts.

    Under Louis XIV in France, a change in fashion led to a new kind of sword. The rapier simply didn't go well with brocaded jackets, breeches, and silk stockings, so French courtiers began wearing a shorter sword. The court sword, as it was known, turned out to be an excellent weapon for fencing because it was both lighter and stronger than the rapier, so it could be used for defense as well as offense. As a result, the modern one-handed fencing technique developed, with the left hand and arm used primarily for balance.


    A special version of the court sword, the foil, was developed for practice. Meanwhile, another type of sword, the colichemarde, had been created for duelling. The blade had a triangular cross-section, with slightly concave sides to reduce weight without reducing strength. The colichemarde evolved into the modern epee.

    The third of the fencing weapons, the saber, was introduced into Europe in the late 18th century as an adaptation of the Turkish scimitar, used by the Hungarian cavalry. It was so effective that other armies began using it and another variation, the cutlass, became a standard naval weapon.

    The saber was originally a very heavy, curved sword, but a lighter, more easily wielded weapon with only a slight bend was developed in Italy late in the 19th century for duelling and fencing. The modern fencing weapon is straight, like the foil and epee, but it still has one cutting edge which can be used to make hits on an opponent.

    Fencing is one of only four sports that have been on every modern Olympic program since 1896. The Fédération Internationale d'Escrime, founded in 1913 to standardize rules, is the governing body for international fencing, including the Olympics.

    There are fencing studios for anyone, from beginner to professional, in various centres in the Perigord -- the Cadets de Bergerac in Bergerac, of course!, with a studio in Eymet as well. To find out more and to find a class close to you, contact Patrick Wynn-Simmonds.
    Patrick is a sabreur(sabre fencer), and has received many wonderful medals and awards and acclaim at the Championnats de France and other European events.
    Last year he also became Champion d'Aquitaine (Vétéran V1 Individuelle) at Mont de Marsan at the Championnats de Ligue Vétéran, again at Epée --- and after beating the Maitre d'armes of Périgueux in the quarter finals, and his club president in the semi!



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  • Monday, October 29

    A Feast for Obelix: The wild boar of Mortemart




    About 30 minutes' drive from Lalinde, one could very easily imagine oneself in an Asterix comic strip: there, in the oak forests of the Perigord-Dordogne is a place that Obelix had obviously never heard about, or else it would not exist! --- a wild boar farm where no fewer than some 500 wild boar roam the hills.


    Mortemart Ferme des Sangliers is a beautiful spot against the forested hills where one can wander along the little pathways between the well-fenced enclosures and enjoy watching the antics of the large herds of wild boar.
    The boars are farmed for their meat, and at the end of your visit, you can taste the delicious products made from wild boar and the marcasin -- the young piglets: rillettes (the fatty soft meat 'spread'), terrines,sausages, and tinned braised and roast boar. Other products are the best ever hair brushes, back brushes and paint brushes made from the strong hairs of its fur.
    For a few Euros, this is definitely a visit that is well worth while. The farm is open right through summer and over weekends during the winter.

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  • The Canal of Lalinde : A beautiful bit of history



    The Canal de Lalinde is probably one of the best little gems of the Dordogne River.

    Because the stretch of river that passes Lalinde is the only part of the Dordogne River which, due to a natural stone weir and three rapids, the Gratusse, the Gratussou and the Grand Thoret is too shallow for boat traffic -- and in particular the gabares flat bottomed boats that used to transport goods from the market in Sarlat down the river to Bergerac and further to Bordeaux, it was decided in 1840 to build this excellent engineering feat. By all accounts even back in 1852, 29,750 tonnes of goods passed along the canal between markets, by 1858 as much as 46,000 tonnes and a mere two years later, in 1860, no less than 200,000 tonnes!.

    The Canal stretches from Mausac to Tuilières with three locks along its 15 kilometers, which are still maintained even though no boat traffic goes slong the canal any longer. The lock at Tuilières comprise of a double set of three locks -- quite a remarkable sight! At Sainte-Capraize one can also see a special area where the canal crosses a small bridge.

    During the sixties, after a fatal accident at Port-de-Couze during the Tour de France, the canal was closed for boat traffic.

    Today the canal is a favourite spot for the fishermen - and women of the area -- apparently the fishing is very good, and any fisherman will tell you that in such exquisite surroundings, with its tunnel of Plane trees and soft golden reflections on the still water, the fishing is good even if the fist did not bite!
    From time to time, if you are lucky, you may also see a team of scullers use the canal for their training, and of course cyclists and walkers and joggers have long ago discovered the beauty of this spot.


    Related Links: Scenes on the Canal de Lalinde
    Fishing in the Dordogne
    Tuilières Barrage
    Gabares: Throw-away boats
    Fishing in France


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  • The new Eurostar High Speed : London to Bordeaux in a 5 hour train ride !




    On 14 November 2007 the new Eurostar High Speed service will be launched from the magnificent new Eurostar station in London, at St Pancras International. London and Bordeaux are now a short distance apart!
    Closer to the patisseries of Paris! Nearer to the best beers of Brussels!
    It will be possible to travel from the state of the art railway terminal in the centre of London, or from the second new terminal at Ebbsfleet International, in the north of Kent, near the Bluewater Shopping Centre (opens on 19 November) from as little as €77 (special offer) to around €250 return to the centre of Bordeaux from next month! (Allow for change over time and cost in Paris from Gare du Nord to Montparnasse station, where you change to the fast TGV).
    What a pleasure! Luxury and excellent service, the best possible way to travel (I love train travel -- don't you?) sipping champagne, no long waits at airports -- in fact, no long journeys to airports as train travel takes you from city centre to city centre -- and in much quicker time than any airline can get you there:

    Paris – London : 2h15 (instead of 2h35)
    Lille – London : 1h20 (instead of 1h40)
    Bruxelles – London : 1h51 (instead of 2h15)
    London - Bordeaux : 5h45 (including change between stations)
    Bordeaux to Lalinde: 1h30


    The High Speed will be the first British fast train of its kind to link up with the already existing high speed trains of Europe. The Channel Tunnel Rail Link (CTRL)will now, for the first time, be able to reach the same speed as the French trains -- that of 300 km/h

    St Pancras, with its neo-Gothic Victorian facade, was first inaugurated in 1868 -- and the new International terminal will keep the same style, although daringly modernised to cater for the 400 meter long Eurostar trains and the highly demanding tastes of its passengers.

    There will be a wide range of shops, bars and restaurants, an international brasserie, the longest champagne bar in Europe and a daily fresh produce market. First Class and Business Class lounges and WiFi connections -- everything a discerning traveler of 2007 demands.
    St Pancras International links up with six tube lines, and seven rail companies -- and King's Cross and Euston are only one tube station away -- convenient and comfortable!

    So, the question now remains: Did Harry Potter really travel from St Pancras? Well, yes! Although he was supposed to have traveled from platform no.9¾ in Kings Cross, the film version shows him traveling from St Pancras, where the superb architecture and neo-Gothic Victorian style forms the perfect backdrop for this all-time favourite!






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  • Monday, October 8

    Why the Brits (don't) come to the Dordogne............. A smile for Expats




    Photo: Clare

    Recently in The Telegraph, Jim White listed -- tongue in cheek -- 30 reasons why Britons say that Britons stay in Britain ---

    The Great Brit Exodus: British citizens are starting new lives abroad at the rate of one every three minutes. With 385,000 people emigrating in the 12 months to July 2006, we're witnessing the biggest exodus for a generation - which has reignited the debate about what exactly is wrong with our country.

    These are the reasons why the readers of Tne Telegraph think the Britons who are still in Britain, stay in Britain:

    1 There's never a problem getting a Polish plumber.

    2 The walk from Solva to Whitesands Bay, round St David's Head in Pembrokeshire - probably the world's most scenic stroll.

    3 Barbecuing in the rain.

    4 Somewhere in virtually every British television schedule, there still lies a gem: Armando Iannucci's The Thick of It, Andrew Marr's A History of Modern Britain, David Attenborough's Planet Earth series…

    5 London's revitalised Southbank. Art, architecture, design, culture and a big wheel all in one astonishing, two-mile-long strip. Try finding something to match that in Perth.

    6 This summer, there has been no need to ring the neighbours to see if they'd remembered to water your garden while you were on holiday…

    7…Or any worries about suffering from sunburn.

    8…Or any fear of being snitched on for putting the sprinkler on your lawn at three in the morning (that's if the sprinkler hasn't rusted up under the swell).

    9 Not having to spend four hours traipsing round town looking for a bar that might be showing the Rugby League cup final.

    10 Teeing off at the first at Wentworth. Forget bungee jumping in New Zealand, hang-gliding in the Himalayas or croc-taming in Oz, there is no experience on Earth that gives an adrenalin rush quite like that. Absolutely terrifying.

    11 You can't get a decent chicken tikka masala anywhere else.

    12 Meeting up with an old mate in the pub, rather than sending an email to make an appointment to be at the computer at the same time so you can talk via Skype for five minutes before losing the link.

    13 The rail journey from Plymouth to Penzance.

    14 Where else can you pay £150 for the privilege of wading thigh-deep in sewage-laced mud before sitting in a sodden tent, unable to get to sleep at four in the morning because the bloke in the next door tent has decided to regale the world with his atonal version of Redemption Song? And do it every weekend, all summer long, anywhere from Loch Lomond, via Glastonbury, to the Isle of Wight?

    15 Cheese-rolling in Gloucestershire, bog-snorkelling in Llanwrtyd Wells, barrel-burning in Lewes: no one does bonkers traditions like they do here.

    16 Some of the best French, Italian, Indian, Chinese, Vietnamese, Spanish and Thai restaurants in the world.

    17 Here, you can walk on pavements where dog owners clear up after their mutts, unlike much of France, which is close to being buried under a rising brown drift.

    18 The view from the top of Mount Snowdon.

    19 Being able to watch great Shakespearian actors, who the rest of the world only get to see on the movie screen as they bolster their pensions in ropey Hollywood blockbusters, performing Shakespeare on stage. And doing it so well, it makes the hairs on the back of your neck stand up.

    20 Not having to pay to be stuck in a five-mile jam on the motorway.

    21 Blackberries the size of ping-pong balls.

    22 The announcements to passengers on First Great Western trains. Where else can you find anything to match the invention ("The delay was caused by the effects of sunshine on signals"), the self-righteousness ("We are held up behind a slow-running train operated by another operator") and the complete lack of self-awareness ("This is a special announcement for those passengers waiting for the special to London Paddington. This special train has been cancelled")?

    23 Going for a swim in the sea without fear of being assaulted by anything larger than a passing condom.

    24 Listening to The Archers omnibus on the radio while preparing Sunday lunch - rather than via the internet in your study at 11 o'clock at night.

    25 The drive from Glasgow to Oban.

    26 Never having to worry that you might catch a chill from the air conditioning on public transport.

    27 The Edinburgh Festival: you don't often get to see Hungarian stilt walkers performing a comedy mime version of Macbeth in Puerto Banus.

    28 A day at Lord's, the most civilised sporting venue in the world.

    29 John Humphrys, the Matt cartoon, Sky Plus, Alan Green, Fighting Talk, Mark Radcliffe, Private Eye, Craig Brown, The Spectator, Chris Morris, Jeremy Paxman, and all those other media delights whose output we casually consume every day. Nowhere else in the world can begin to match strength like that.

    30 Plus, at least here, unlike in the Dordogne and southern Spain, you're not surrounded the whole time by other bloody Brits.




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  • Friday, October 5

    A British film festival in Dinard




    Judging by the packed-out pre-festival outdoor screening of Dinard’s 18th British Film Festival, this year’s show promised to be bursting at the seams, writes French News. Cinema-goers were well advised to come early.

    Some 20 out-of-competition films opened with Ken Loach’s latest offering ‘It’s a Free World’, starring Kierston Wareing and Juliet Ellis. Other must-sees are ‘This is England’ by Shane Meadows, ‘Ruby Blue’ by Jan Dunn starring Bob Hoskins and festival president Josiane Balasko and ‘I really hate my job’ by Oliver Parker with Neve Cambell (a welcome come-back of 'Party of Five' all-time favourite) and Shirley Henderson.

    As promised, a James Bond theme is being played throughout this year’s festival. Guest speaker Nicolas Cebille gave a conference tracing the evolution of Her Majesty’s most famous spy on October 2 in the Stéphan Bouttet theatre after the projection of a 30-minute 007 documentary.

    Another run-up event to the festival-proper was the presence of Mariano Otero, the world famous artist who designed this year’s absolutely delightful festival poster. Otero was on hand to sign copies of his posters on Wednesday October 3 at Dinard’s Palais des Arts -- la vache! where was I? This was followed by a screening of a 90-minute selection of the best British short films shown at the festival over the last two years.

    There is also a host of admission free films this year, including the brilliant ‘Notes on a Scandal’ (Judi Dench surpasses herself in this film and Kate Blanchet is her usual wonderful self), ‘A Cock and Bull Story’, ‘History Boys’, ‘Shaun of the Dead’, ‘Twenty Four Seven’, ‘Very British Gangster’ and the 'hoping-to-be-shocking'‘Irina Palm’, starring Marianne Faithfull.


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