Saturday, July 31

The agony and the ecstasy of running a Chambres dHotes in the Dordogne


Running a Chambres d'Hotes/guest house in the Dordogne is probably one of the most enjoyable experiences one could have. Not only do you get to share the most beautiful and idyllic spot on the beautiful Dordogne river, but you also get to meet people from all over the world -- different countries, different cultures, different languages, different interests, different conversations, different points of view.

So it is a huge amount of work on the Saturday when the one group leaves and the other group arrives a few hours later -- changing all the beds, scrubbing out the bathrooms, making sure there are ample fluffy towels and toiletries laid out, fresh flowers on the bedside tables, checking all the light bulbs, cleaning windows and brushing the omnipresent cobwebs around the window frames, dusting and polishing the furniture and sweeping the carpets, filling the little sweetie bowls, arranging the files with information about local events this week.......... the list goes on. But when the first people arrive and walk through the door and get that look of wonder on their faces as they step into the entrance hall of the chateau, and then, when they walk a few steps further and out onto the terrace and see the view of the river, the forests on the other side, the swans gliding below and the light on the water, and they gasp and cannot find the words to express their pleasure, then all those hours of frantically preparing for their welcome have been worth every bit of the effort and energy.


The ugly tourist, sculpture by Duan Hanson, Saatchi Gallery



And then -- every now and then, fortunately not too often, you get the couple who arrive at the door, exhausted after a long drive in a strange country where they don't speak the language and where the locals will always reflect their own attitude and mood, hot and bothered and obviously still fuming after a serious marital tiff, unhappy being here in France, here in the Dordogne, here in front of my door, already adamant that nothing will please them, nothing will be good enough, nothing will make up for the long hot trip and having to spend time with each other -- and you heart sinks in your shoes, because you know, no matter what you do, you will not change their experience. They will go away after the week -- after having made very sure that they have done everything in their power to make your life as miserable as theirs -- and they will go home to Sydney or London or to wherever home is, unhappy, disgruntled and critical of this beautiful village in this beautiful region in this beautiful country.

And all I can say is thank goodness I know the next group arriving this afternoon will be speechless and in awe of their first impression of the chateau and the river, will enjoy every precious moment of their stay in the Dordogne, will avail themselves to every bit of local knowledge and history and lesser known folklore and interesting facts about this place that I can give them, will enjoy meeting the locals I introduce them to, the delicious fresh flavours and aromas of the local produce straight out of the rich soil around us, the choice of cultural activities and night markets and musical evenings and street dances and arts and crafts and traditional exhibitions that abound at the moment -- and next Saturday they will linger and linger on the terrace until I have to eventually shoo them out the door so that I can have enough time to change the rooms, make the beds, scrub the bathrooms, ........ before the next lot arrive!

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