I have long had a desire to go discover Bordeaux. It is so close to Lalinde, either by road or by train, and would be a good place to recommend to visitors who stay at the chateau -- for good food and excellent wine -- and yet the only reason most people I talk to go there, is to go to Ikea! - and even then it is there and back as fast as a trip to Ikea is possible, because they 'hate the drive there, hate the Rocade (ring road around Bordeaux), hate the city - never go into the city! hate the squalor and dirt, the people, the cars.....'Whenever people speak like that, I cannot help myself! I have to -- simply have to go look for myself and see if it can really be possible for a city to be such a bad experience!
I am pleased I did go. I loved Bordeaux!
Beautiful, intelligent and brilliant. This is how Bordeaux is described. The city that has found its second youth by redesigning itself, using the talent and the self-confidence of its own inhabitants, into a prestigious social, tourist, cultural and economic city that is at the same time also the world wine capitol and one of the most prominent research centres of the scientific world.
Originally called Budigala when still a Gallic-Roman city in the 3rd century, it has seen many changes in its colourful history, and like Madonna it seems to be able to recreate itself and its own image at will.
The city revolves around its 12 quartiers, or neighbourhoods, and wandering through the narrow little cobblestone streets one can see remnants of its history dating back hundreds of years, the architecture a living example of past eras, influences, fashions.
The last major renovation programme was initiated by Alain Juppé when he became mayor in 1995 to 2004 and then was re-elected in 2006. Many great architects were called in to design the ‘new Bordeaux’, but Juppé could well be seen as the best architect of all. He applied a vision and a drive for the renaissance of Bordeaux that may have been lacking in his short term as Prime Minister, but has known no bounds in his mayoral office. One only has to walk through the streets to see the changes – old, black, rotting buildings beautifully restored to their former glory. Streets closed for traffic by a simple and efficient permit system, and the people of the city are given free rein to wander the streets and enjoy their own city, a super-efficient electrical tram system readily available to transport you to every corner and ample parking garages never far away. Wonderful little restaurants or grand eating establishments, small intimate wine shops or large imposing wine distributors, impressive art galleries, museums, theatres and emporiums and tiny exclusive boutiques and fashion outlets, tapas bars and cafes.
The first Sunday of every month there are no cars in the city. Families may walk about with their young children, bicycle riders, skate boarders and roller skaters can discover the beauty of Bordeaux, the good weather and the street entertainment offered to them.
The bold and visionary renovation programme of the city was initiated unanimously by the city council on 8 July 2002, and already the changes are so noticeable, the air so much cleaner, the general quality of life so much improved, that the Bordelaises have fallen in love with their own city all over again—for the first time in 40 years, the population of Bordeaux has stopped its annual decrease!
The goal is to have finished the current programme by 2010, when more than 2000 buildings will have been restored, over 5000 commercial spaces and parks created and 330 parking garages built.
How, in a country where there is so little – or no – economic growth, has it been possible to achieve this miracle? The programme (L’OPAH : Opération Programmée d’Amélioration de l’Habitat et de Renouvellement Urbain) has set aside €13 million to assist property owners to restore and renovate their properties, with the added assistance of expertise and other incentives. And no doubt, having the people of the city do the work themselves has added to the pride and the reward generated by the programme.
Bordeaux is so easily accessible by train or by air, or even by road, that it is a perfect destination for a weekend of enjoyment, shopping, good food, opera, theatre, culture, history – and of course – excellent wine! And if you are a lover of architecture and historical renovations, treat yourself and visit this beautiful city!
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