A perfect truffle should be firm, have a good aroma and full of taste. It breathes and absorbs oxygen and rejects carbon dioxide and other gases containing its aroma. After a while it oxidates and loses its aroma. It is this clear that once ripe, it should be eaten as soon as possible, whence the need to buy straight from the market, or from retailers with recent supplies.
The Truffe noire du Périgord fresh and grated improves everything that is in contact with it. It goes very well with celery, shallots, and well reduced sweet onions, artichokes, avocados, jerusalem artichokes.
It is important to trap its aroma, either in fats such as oil, butter, cream, or by infusion in a sauce or it should be added at the end of cooking, or enclosed in puff pastry, brioche, bread, or in slivers under the skin of poultry.
The best Brumales can be used in sauces. Aestivum is only used grated pasta and risotto.
The Varieties Harvested
...and their gastronomic value
Tuber Melanosporum
Called the black truffle of Périgord, it is harvested between November and March.
Epidermis wartish brown with red reflections Soil marbled with white on anthracite base colour. Smells of forest undergrowth and damp earth, roasted dry fruits.
Taste: finely peppered, recalling its aromatic composition, long in the mouth. Only admitted in Grade 1; Ste Alvère.
Tuber Brumale Harvested between November and March, on the same sites as Mélano which it strongly rivals.Darker epidermis, flaking off easily. Soil less subtly marbled with a grey background. Smells of turnip, nuancée with garlic (suavum version) ethereal, disagreeable (version moschatu).
Taste: Very peppery and characteristically turnipy, relegated to Grade 2 Ste Alvère.
Tuber Aestivum
Harvested between May and September sometimes later..Epidermis dark brown, large pyramid-shaped wartlike deformations, striped in both directions. Soil: finely marbled with branches on a white background, veering towards grey matures well.
Subtle smell of underwood.
Taste of forest mushrooms.
Tuber Uncinatum
Called "Bourgogne", closely related to the previous, quite rare in Dordogne.
The best season is between September and December. Same visual aspect, soil; chocolate, smell and taste more pronounced.
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