There are few places left where traditions and gastronomic excellence are life styles rather than values but the Chateau Lalinde Blog takes us to such a place in the heart of the Dordogne.For most people the move to a foreign country would be traumatic enough - adjusting to a new culture, a new language, a new way of life is in itself difficult to do, no matter how easy and laid back you may be. But probably the biggest adjustment - the biggest culture shock - and one that not many think of when planning their Big Move, is the adjustment from city life to country living.
After having lived a lifetime in big cities, I knew there would be a change in life style when I moved into the country. I expected a slower pace, a different approach to life in general, a more relaxed routine, less rush and less stress, more fresh air and more freedom. I was ready to change my life accordingly; whether I was adequately prepared for it though, is another matter altogether. And perhaps just as well, as the result of my ‘inadequate preparation’ was that for the last 18 months in my newly adopted country, I have not had a single day go by without a wonderful little surprise, a delightful new discovery, a touch of wonder and a large dose of awe.
No cross cultural awareness course or relocation lecture could – or should – reveal all these wondrous things that come your way out here in the provinces. It is in making the discoveries oneself that add the spice and the excitement to the journey.
One of the exclamations my city slicker friends often make when I go on and on singing the praises of the pleasures of country living, is “But what about eating out! Don’t you miss the fine dining of the city restaurants?”
Fine dining? Eating out? I bite my tongue, and wonder..... Do I honestly want to let out one of the best kept secrets of life in the provinces? Are we ready to share one of the most precious little gems of country living with our city slicker friends? Do we really have to tell them about the Fermes Auberges?Fermes Auberges are ‘home industry’ restaurants that one finds in several of France’s provinces. They can have accommodation, but the emphasis remains on the restaurant side of the business. The rule is that at least 50% of everything that is served in the restaurant has to be home-grown and produced – agriculture being their first activity and the restaurant with their own produce the second. So it is that the Fermes Auberges in the Charente serve mainly goat products and wine, in Brittany the speciality is sea food and in the Pays Basque the auberge menu will feature pork.
Here in the Aquitaine, and in particular the Dordogne, we are fortunate to have several excellent fermes auberges. There is even more than one that sports an air strip for those gourmands from Paris and Marseilles with private planes who have a craving for the best foie gras or confit de canard.
But seeing as I am letting the cat out of the bag – or the duck out of the tree, allow me to invite you to one of my very favourite fermes auberges. It is up in the hills, 2.5 km behind Trémolat, on the Chemin de Crète, and called Les Truffières.
Yanick -- larger than life, artist, passionate about life and love and his work, best described as a man full of bonhomie, and Lyzianne -- outgoing, highly qualified and competent, vivacious, bubbling with enjoyment and enthusiasm for her trade, welcome you at the door like old friends.
The proud owners of Les Truffieres
A few years ago they both decided to leave the city where Yanick was in great demand as an interior architect and Lyzianne worked as a medical secretary, and they moved to this 5 hectare farm where they converted their old tobacco drying shed into a restaurant – the interior of which would make the Michelin Three Stars salivate with envy. While Yanick was creating the perfect environment for their venture, Lyzianne went off to get her Diploma in Agriculture at the Lycée Agricole de Coulounieix-Chamiers, and three years ago they started their business.
Today they work side by side with apparent ease and pleasure, Lyzianne taking care of the raising, gavage or feeding, and slaughtering of the ducks and chickens, and her share of the meal preparation, whilst Yanick takes care of his very interesting and original selection of home made aperitifs and digestifs, as well as the front of the house and any cooking that is done in the large fireplace in the restaurant. They are both excellent cooks-- their foie gras demi-cuit is the best I have yet tasted and as for Yanick’s magret de canard, sprinkled with coarse salt and a few herbs and done in strips over the open wood fire – well, my mouth is watering as I write this. If you are lucky, you will also be offered a paper thin sliver or two of their magret de canard séché or salt dried ducks’ breast with you aperitif before sitting down to your meal.
Anyone who has qualms about eating foie gras, need not be concerned. Listening to Lyzianne speak of her ducks (she raises on average 800 ducks per year) would put your mind at rest. She may have a top scientific qualification, but she prefers to follow the ancient and traditional farming ways and therefore does not practise beak-cutting or spur removal, as she believes that when the birds have freedom to move around in wide open spaces – as they do on their farm, and are not kept enclosed in confined spaces, they will not damage each other with their beaks or their spurs. When the Avian Flu scare hit the Dordogne, theirs was one of the few farms where they -- literally with tears running down their cheeks -- killed 64 of their chickens rather than pump them full of vaccinations and medicines and confine them indoors in too small barns. Thus everything they serve on your plate is 100% organic, 100% natural. And 100% delicious.The menu typically consists of an aperitif, foie gras with a Monbazillac or sweet wine, a salade de gesiers or a terrine de campagne (or other, depending on the season), a main course of duck, chèvre (goat’s cheese – possibly on toast, grilled with a little drizzle of their own honey), a delicious home made dessert, coffee and a digestif – usually one of Yanick’s own eau de vie. Wine is included as well. A king’s fare for the meagre sum of €22. There are 25 covers, the ferme auberge is open all year round, and booking is essential.
Generally the Fermes Auberges are not widely advertised -- there are a handful of websites on the internet and here and there the local town- or village councils will have a list on their websites, but possibly the reason is that more than any other industry, this is one that advertises itself through word of mouth. Not all of them are as outstanding as Les Truffières, and depending on your taste and preference, certain provinces' auberges' menus may not be to your liking, but one thing is sure though -- when you have had the pleasure of discovering a ferme auberge such as this one and enjoyed the warm hospitality and ambience and sampled their delicious fare, you are not likely to ever regret leaving the "fine dining of the city restaurants" behind!
Les Truffières
Yanick et Lyzianne Le Goff
Chemin de Crète
Trémolat
0553 27 30 44
08 75 37 19 56
Nearest Train station: Trémolat 3km
Nearest Airport : Bergerac 30km
Ferme Auberge with landing strip for light aircraft:
Ferme de Rebeyrotte
Rebeyrotte Vicq
0553 61 13 87
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