In the heart of the Vézère valley, between Les Eyzies-- which is regarded as the 'world capital' of Prehistory-- and Montignac -- where Lascaux II is found, is the magnificent troglodyte city of La Roque St-Christophe, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the 'musts' on my list for visitors to Chateau Lalinde to see.
How ironic that this site, which has been a troglodyte city for the last 55 000 years -- right up to the 16th century, should now, in 2007, be closed to visitors. On 31 August a huge fire broke out -- apparently due to an electrical fault -- which burnt down the entire reception area -- a beautifully designed glass and timber structure which melded in so perfectly with the natural rock and ancient historical structures already in place.
What a disappointment to arrive there yesterday with visitors and find that we could not climb up to the city and wander around in pre-history for a couple of fascinating and enjoyable hours. But the friendly official on site -- specifically there to apologise to visitor for the inconvenience and recommend other sites in the area to viist instead, informed us that the site will be open again in 2008 -- ready for the next summer season of tourists to the Dordogne area.
Information: La Roque St-Christophe is a pre-historic troglodyte site dating from the Mousterian era, which has been lived in by successive generations of man. Its situation is very dramatic with good views, rising vertically 80m from the Vezère valley. The whole site is half a mile long and rises in five galleries dug out from the rock. The fascinating remains of some of the buildings can be seen – like the Church, as well as some medieval weaponry, while other parts of the site have been excellently reconstructed.
Our recommendations: For children this is possibly the most interesting above ground pre-historic site – particularly for those who are not keen on either underground visits or families who prefer an unguided visit (leaflet provided with an English translation). It is possible to take a light-weight buggy around the site although care is needed in places.
Location: Just off the D706 at Le Moustier, 10km NE of Les Eyzies.
Free parking, small café and picnic tables at the site with lots of shade, a little pond -- and duck happy to receive a few crumbs.
General info: Opening times – daily in peak season 10.00 -7.00.
Tel: 05 53 50 70 45 other times.
Related Article: The Birthplace of Man
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