Carcassonne , or Carcassona, in the language of the Southwest of France, Occitan, is a fortified French town, in the Aude département in the former province of Languedoc. It is separated into the fortified Cité de Carcassonne and the more expansive lower city, the ville basse. The folk etymology – involving a châtelaine named Carcas, a ruse ending a siege and the joyous ringing of bells --"Carcas sona" –- now made immortal in a neo-Gothic sculpture on a column next to Narbonne Gate — is of modern invention.
The fortress, which was restored -- far too perfectly to my taste! -- around 1853 by the theorist and architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, and was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1997.
The mediaeval walled town lies on the right bank of the River Aude. It has 52 towers and 2 rings of town walls making a total of 3 km of battlements. There is no restriction on access to this area of Carcassonne. It is still home today to its population of approximately 120 and it boasts a large number of shops and craftsmen. It is open all year and access to the Medieval City is free.
And so, when I returned from a wonderful week in Morocco last week, flying into Marseilles with Atlas Blue, I decided to take my time in getting home and stop along the way in Carcassonne to visit the medieval citadel.
The history of Carcassonne goes hand in hand with the history of the crusades and the Knights Templar, and I was very interested in finding more about this history whilst wandering along the ramparts of the fortress town.
Chronology of the crusade
• • 1167: Cathare council of Saint-Felix-of-Caraman (today Holy Felix Lauragais): creation of the four cathare bishops (Albi, Agen, Carcassonne and Toulouse).
• • 1208: murder of the papal legate Pierre de Castelnau close to Saint-Gilles.
• • 1209: beginning of the crusade
- sack of Béziers
- The city Carcassonne: death of the viscount of Trencavel
- first Cathares to be burnt at the stake in Castres
• • 1210: Mutilation of the people living in Bram, falls of Minerve (stake of 140 Cathares), Termes and Puivert.
• • 1211: In March Cabaret was taken (Lastours). Siege of Lavaur, Cassés. Failure of the first siege of Toulouse. Battle of Castelnaudary.
• • 1212: Conquest of Bas-Quercy, Argennais and the Comminges.
• • 1213: Battle of Muret.
• • 1215: 4th council of Latran : the count of Toulouse host his rights to the advantage of Simon de Montfort.
• • 1216: Death of the pope Innocent III replaced by Honorius III.
• • 1217: Return of Raymond VI in Toulouse: the second siege started.
• • 1218: Death of Simon de Montfort under the walls of Toulouse.
• • 1222: Raymond VII became count of Toulouse after the death of Raymond VI.
• • 1223: Death of Philippe Auguste. Louis VIII took the continuation.
• • 1226: 5th cathare bishop: Razès. This was the beginning of the crusade of Louis VIII who will die the same year (Blanche de Castille will be regent).
• • 1227: The Cathares went underground : a council of Toulouse codified the repression of the heresy.
• • 1233: Beginning of the Inquisition, ordered by the pope Gregoire IX.
• • 1240: Peyrepertuse was taken.
• • 1242: Murder of 2 inquisitors in Avignonet.
• • 1243: Beginning of the siege of Montségur.
• • 1244: Montségur was taken. Stake. This is the theoretical end of the catharism (Guillaume Bélibaste is the last perfect and he will be burnt in 1321 in Villerouge-Termenès).
• 1096: Pope Urbain II blessed the materials, which would be used to build the Church of Saint-Nazaire.
• 1248: Carcassonne, thus formed part of the royal field. Saint Louis, who did not want war any longer with long and lasting sieges made the city fortified, building a second wall. Carcassonne such as we know it today, had just been born. Saint - Louis allowed the inhabitants who were back, to build a city apart from the city: there will be 2 parishes: Saint - Vincent and Saint - Michael in remembering the 2 boroughs.From this time, the city was powerful and considered to be untakable. Carcassonne was peaceful until 1355 when the army of the Black Prince put the sack and wiped out the unfortified lower town.
Although the city is imposing in its size and 'excellence' of restoration, I was very disappointed. I had just returned from the 950 year old Medina of Fez, one of the very last remaining 'living' medina's in the world, where people still work in the same way, dress in the same way, eat and live and exist in the same way as they did 950 years ago. Where the arts and crafts they practise in the traditional ways are not done for tourists, but for themselves and their own livelihood. Where everything is authentic and real.
And I --- illogically, I know--- nevertheless half-expected the medieval citadel of Carcassonne to be more or less the same -- but of course it was not!
It is a clone of the medieval walled city in Disney World. All the little buildings, in their restored splendour, look as if they had been built out of cardboard. Every second establishment was a little restaurant sporting menus with local and traditional fare. All the little shops selling -- admittedly beautiful things - along with the tourist and commercial junk - did not for a moment make you feel as if you were walking through an old medieval town where the traditional arts and crafts were on show, but rather like you were going to be caught any moment in a terrible tourist trap.
All very prettinesses, and no doubt a visit to the citadel will be the highlight of many a tourist, but I had come with different expectations and was left completely cold. I realised that I should have known better; years ago I vowed never to go back to Mont St Michel, for although it is one of the most breathtaking historical places in all of Europe, it too had been turned into a massive maze of tourist-attracting establishments and the original feeling of losing oneself in history and time was lost under all that veneer and brash and gaudy attire.
I also realised that my impressions were probably unfair as I had come with preconceived ideas -- never a good idea when travelling, and I, of all people should know that. I have even written about it in this blog! To come from a place where the culture and traditions and customs of a thousand years ago were still the daily living norm and to expect that to have been 'achieved' anywhere else - in particular where tourism has been one of the most important industries for many years, is completely wrong.
But -- so be it.
By all means go visit Carcassonne, and write to us and tell us your impressions. I would love to be persuaded to go back there one day and see it in a different light!
The following from some of the brochures and leaflets of what is available in Carcassonne:
• From big kangaroos to emus, from gold prospectors to aborigines, from boomerangs to didgeridoos, come and share in the "Australian dream". (??)
Guided tour of Carcassonne in a horse-drawn carriage.
• Reconstruction of a classroom in old times. Exhibition of documents, furniture and school material from the time of Jules Ferry.
• Museum of the Middle Ages
At a distance of 800 metres from the Cité, on the commune of Pech Mary, see the flight of the world's largest birds of prey.
• Basilica of Saint-Nazaire
• Place de l'église
• Carcassonne. The jewel of the Cité ! Cathedral from the 11th and 14th century. A mass is celebrated there every Sunday at 11am
La Cité Carcassonne
Tél : 04 68 11 70 70
Fax : 04 68 11 70 71The ultimate stronghold, built in the 12th century, it was the home of the Trencavels, vicomtes of Carcassonne. Guided tours, gallery talks, educational activities (for children). Lapidary museum, permanent exhibition on the restoration of the Cité in the 19th century.
• A tour through the heart of the Bastide Saint-Louis (country estate) to view its many treasures (in French, English and Spanish). 3€ per audio guide. Duration: 1 ½ to 2 hours.
Reservation recommended.
Every day, throughout the year
Admission for a fee
Guided tours of the Bastide
28, rue de Verdun
11890 Carcassonne Cédex 9
Tél : 04.68.10.24.30
Fax : 04.68.10.24.38
• Carcassonne Tourist Info
Guided tours of the Bastide Saint Louis. Discover its remains, its monuments and its private mansions, between the banks of the Aude and the Canal du Midi.
Price : - Adults: 5€ - Children : 5€ - Under 12 : free.
From 12/6/2007 through 13/9/2007, every tuesday and thursday.
Entry fee. Reservations advised at the Municipal Tourist Office
• Boat Hire - Société Nautic
15, quai Riquet
Carcassonne
Tél : 04 68 71 88 95Boat hire, weekends and weekly. Boats sleep 2 to 12 people.
• The Cité de Carcassonne set ablaze
Every year on the night of July 14th at 10:30pm
In 1998 the Town of Carcassonne celebrated the centennial of the setting ablaze of its legendary Cité: on 14 August 1898, the "Cadets de Gascogne", a company composed of some of the most prominent members of the worlds of literature, art and politics, had arrived in Carcassonne.
On this occasion the Town had organised a big celebration to honor these prestigious visitors, including a historical reenactment, concerts, balls, illuminations, parades, artillery gun salutes, a torchlight march, banquets, etc.
To conclude the celebrations, at nightfall the entire Cité was set ablaze and became one huge incandescent block of stone. The flaring-up of the Cité using Bengal lights was originally the idea of Achille Rouquet (1851-1928), founder of the Revue Méridionale. He was also a painter, an engraver, a poet and a félibre, i.e. a writer of langue d'oc. After the Cité's first flaring-up, he requested from the Mayor of Carcassonne, Monsieur Jules Sauzède, that this action be repeated each year. This event now takes place every year on the night of July 14th, and has achieved worldwide fame.
More than 700.000 spectators are huddled together on the banks of the Aude to see the amazing fireworks.
During more than 25 minutes you can admire flames of blue, white, yellow, green red, gold and a grandiose crowning piece. More than 1200 impacts in 6 seconds over 600 metres of frontage.
• Spanish Week - Last week in August
Spain pays a visit to Carcassonne during the last week in August. Shows, events, concerts, dance performances, and gastronomic specialities will inspire all to live to the rhythm of Spanish culture.
Click on Link:
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