Tuesday, August 29

Swans on the Dordogne

Photo: Suzanna Clarke : Copyright

One of the greatest pleasures of living right on the river, is to have the company of anything up to 140 swans right outside my window. To walk out onto the terrace with a few pieces of bread and have the swans immediately come swimming closer the moment they see me, knowing that a tasty titbit awaits them, is a wonderful experience.

Over the last year that I have been here, I have watched from my window how little families grow - from when the small brown chicks stay so close to their parents that you hardly know they are there until the young ones are the same size as their parents and can only be recognised by their slightly dun coloured neck feathers or their slightly more orange beaks, and then they set off to wherever they had decided to spend their winter. After winter they all came back, and judging from those that came straight to the foot of the chateau to see if I still dished out bread, I knew that some of them had to have been the offspring I had watched being born, grow and develop.
However, this year there is something strange afoot. None of the pairs are breeding. There are no little families on the river this year. No cygnets. No parents solicitously looking after their young, teaching them where to graze, which currents to look out for, what to do when the river suddenly takes them downstream.
In fact, the only baby swans I have seen were three, almost fully grown, with their parents, near Beynac, the day we went canoeing.
Where are the baby swans this year? Why no breeding? Is this a sign of an early winter or an exceptionally cold one? -- the temperatures are most definitely pointing in that direction. These lows of 12' - 14' during the month of August are exceptional and yet another indication of the changing seasons. I was wondering whether this is similar to the squirrels in the United Kingdom indicating cold harsh winters when they start collecting nuts and berries early on in the summer. --- or is that another old wive's tale?
In trying to research the subject, I could find no information -- perhaps one of our readers knows more and can inform us? -- but what I did come across is a fascinating account of the Cygnet Cult -- which originates in Ireland.

Photo: Suzanna Clarke : Copyright


The Cygnus Mystery
Why exactly the cult of the swan might have existed in megalithic Ireland, and indeed among several other key Neolithic stone monuments in the British Isles, is not clear. Avebury, Wayland Smithy long barrow and Callanish are all aligned towards either the rising or setting of key stars in the celestial swan, which since Palaeolithic times has been seen as a primary symbol of the cult of dead and rebirth across Europe and Asia.
Indeed, as a psychopomp (Greek for 'soul-carrier'), the celestial bird was universally considered the vehicle by which the dead were able to reach a northerly placed heaven 'north beyond the north wind', a belief that prevailed in the Scottish Western Isles until very recently. Moreover, such beliefs in Europe go back at least to 4800 BC, since a Mesolithic burial unearthed recently in Denmark was found to contain a woman and her young child, who had been laid to rest on a giant swan's wing. Indeed, it moved prehistorian and Palaeolithic expert Steven Mithen to comment:
Among the nineteenth-century Saami people of northern Europe, swans and wildfowl were the messengers of the gods. Such birds could, after all, walk on the land, swim on the water and fly in the air - adept at moving between different worlds. Perhaps the Mesolithic people had similarly revered their swans and let one fly that poor child away to their afterworld where he could have the life denied to him on earth. (Mithen, AFTER THE ICE, pp.181-2)
The cult of Cygnus is integrally related to the shamanic process of entering the sky-world (heaven if you like) via a perceived sky-pole that terminates in something known to mythologists as the cosmic axis, synonymous with the north celestial pole. This is marked in the night sky by the Pole Star, or North Star, currently Polaris in Ursa Minor, although this is simply the latest in a series of pole stars which feature during the Earth's 26,000-year precessional cycle. As the perceived guardian of the entrance to the sky-world, Cygnus as the cosmic bird, positioned at the most northerly extent of the Milky Way, is at the heart of ancient cosmologies and religions worldwide. It has been a major influence on the design and orientation of sacred architecture, which, in addition to the megalithic monuments of Britain and Ireland, includes the Pyramids of Giza, the ancient effigy mounds of the United States, as well as various ancient temples in Mexico, Peru and India.
Cygnus is also at the root of Christianity's use of the Crucifix as a symbol of death and redemption, as well as the veneration of the north as the direction of the Primal Cause, God himself. This belief is found within the religions of various Middle Eastern sects descended from the star-worshipping Sabians of Harran (known as the Chaldeans in the Bible). They include the angel-worshipping Yezidi of Syria and Upper Iraq, the Mandaeans of Iraq and Iran, and the Shi'i Muslim sect called the Brethren of Purity.

What with discovering ley lines and dowsing and ancient Celtic sacrificial stones, my readers will start wondering whether the mist over the river in the mornings, or the feast of Celtic music I have been listening to, or the woodsmoke that drifts into my window every morning from my neighbour's garden might be starting to affect me!
But fear not! I am simply on a quest to find out why the swans are not breeding this year on the Dordogne!







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    Wednesday, August 23

    Drinking with the Druids at Belingard




    Ambrosia in the Dordogne. This is what I recently discovered right on my doorstep when I chanced upon the beautiful wine estate of

    Laurent and Sylvie de Bosregard.

    I also learned about Celtic holy places in the Dordogne -- and about my own magic powers!

    But first let me share with you something about the first discovery: the ambrosia of Belingard!
    Three thousand years ago the Celts came to this spot and called it "The Garden of the Gods" -- or Belen-Gaard. Today it is simply called Belingard-- the home of Laurent and Sylvie de Bosredon, and the estate where the three thousand year tradition of wine making is continued and some of the best wines of the region are produced -- still good enough to be fit for the gods!

    There are many many wine estates in this area -- after all, we are in THE wine area of THE wine country of the world. There are also many estates where one can go and taste the wines of the estate and, if that is your wish, buy a few bottles to take home. All round a pleasurable way to spend a leisurely afternoon. But --- there are not too many places where the owner and his wife are as charming, as knowledgeable, as welcoming (and as fluent in English) as this particular couple and where they personally give you a fascinating little tour and lecture on the estate -- which has been in the same family for over two hundred years - and where wine has been produced non-stop for the last 3000 years! - and then personally conduct the best, most interesting and most complete and informative wine tasting session I have ever attended. An entire afternoon of pure pleasure!

    The hill on which the Belingard Chateau proudly stands in a circle of giant oak trees, was discovered thousands of years ago to be a 'ley', or a 'bridge' where the energy fields of the earth and of the cosmos are the strongest and make contact. If you have any skeptical thoughts about the veracity of this statement, the claim is reinforced by the presence of a sculpted rock on this site (which has a magical horizon that can leave no one indifferent, whether you believe the story or not!), which served as an altar of sacrifice used by the Druids some 3,000 years ago.
    The Count Laurent de Bosredon's enthusiastic and colourful account of the Celts, and the young virgins and druid apprentices -- of the Hundred Years war and the Plantagenet in the Aquitaine, and soldiers consumed by the Celtic god, Beleen or Belin, is only matched by his obvious passion for his land and his wine -- when he speaks of the different grape varieties, methods of wine making, the secrets of the land and the soil and the terrain, harvests and plantings and vines, then he becomes an historian, a story teller, a poet -- and a druid himself.
    And then there is Sylvie who organises and directs and with her sharp mind and quick sense of humour makes sure that everything runs smoothly, that everyone is looked after and that no one leaves without the magic of a big smile!

    Château Bélingard was already well ranked in the 1903 édition of Féret’s "Bergerac et ses vins", with 100 barrels of red wine and 50 of white wine. In the 1994 edition, it is still the leading wine producer of the famous Monbazillac and Bergerac appellations, and today they can proudly boast some of the very best wines that France has to offer.

    Laurent de Bosredon says: "As for the white and red wines of our region, I am seeking a subtle balance between a fruity, floral and soft presence in the mouth, with an underlying tannic or tight and silky aroma. And for the Monbazillac sweet wines, I have wines that are a juxtaposition of white wine and sugar. Botrytis is a miracle. The wines of Château Bélingard from a Noble Rot harvest must be an exceptional blend of harmony and elegance, between fleshy and fresh fruit.”


    The product range can be presented as follows:
    Château Bélingard : from the blend of the different grape varieties present on the estate, these wines are very typical of the Bergerac and Monbazillac appellations.
    • The "Alliance" vintage of Château Bélingard results from the association of the traditional practices of our great lands with modern technology, as implemented by the winemakers of the New World. These wines are deliciously supple with a hint of wood.
    • The wines of the "Blanche de Bosredon" vintage of Château Bélingard, the core of the estate’s production, are the result of a rigorous selection of grape varieties and ageing in French oak barrels.
    "Ortus" of Château Bélingard can only be found in the Côtes de Bergerac Red Appellation . It comes from a strict grape selection and is always aged in new barrels. A superb wine.
    "Lyvress" of Château Belingard : Premium Dry White Wine -- a delightfully different and delicious wine in an elegant slim bottle.



    Ley lines are alleged alignments of ancient sites or holy places, such as stone circles, standing stones, cairns, and churches. The ley-line system exists as an independent circuitry with the capacity to affect consciousness and are part of the earth's energy system. Monuments serve to reveal or mark the network, making the sites more special by connecting and networking them together. Ley, as a word, is akin to leoht (light illumination) and Middle English lea meaning "pasture land, a meadow which is open to the sun and therefore, at times, drenched with light." This connection of the word ley with light is significant on several levels. Physically, the clearing of tracks through the forest lights the way and marks the "ley of the land." The word ley is also related to ley, lee and lay. This etymological sequence describes a sort of cosmic roadway system upon which people traveled in pre-Renaissance times. First, lines were delineated by cleared hilltop notches (ley), then woodland through which the ley line passed was cleared (lay), and then the fields which domesticated the landscape were cleared (lee) with the names ley, lay, and lee applying to each stage of ley landscape development.

    Visualize mounded tree groves -- uisually oak trees as they form a perfect 'bridge' between land and sky with their deep roots and high strong branches -- on ley lines and a grove of trees on the ley lightway, filled with sacred cosmic light. Imagine standing on a hilltop at dusk, seeing an aura of lighted lines passing through earthworks and stone circles, with darkened groves of trees glowing with soft light. A magical mystery tour!


    Ley lines and light are very closely related. Ley lines are cosmic forces originating outside of the Earth. They penetrate and leave the Earth vertically at nodes. The penetrating nodes are called power centers. The average length of a ley line is twenty to thirty miles, although the length can vary from only a few feet to thousands of miles. The width of the line varies, but the average is 5-1/2 feet, the width of the Roman road. The horizontally traveling ley line exits the Earth by again turning 90 degrees and passing straight through the center of the Earth and coming out the other side.


    And my magic powers? Well -- since I was little I have been a water diviner and could, with the help of a forked stick point out where, how deep and how strong water lines under the earth are. Growing up on the dry continent of Africa, this gift proved very useful and made me feel quite important at times -- although never made a big fuss of. But it was only when I researched 'ley lines' that I discovered that this means that I can also point out ley lines, allignments of holy sites and magic places! Whether I like to be called a "dowser", is another matter altogether........



    Dowsing deuten, to declare, douse, to plunge) refers to techniques for finding water or other things by using a dowsing instrument, such as a dowsing rod. The use of the dowsing rod, a Y-shaped forked stick or rod used to find water and hidden objects is probably as old as humankind. The dowsing rod is still is used commercially by many well-drillers and contractors who have to dig around underground pipes and lines. A good dowser/well-driller can find good, pure water 95% of the time.

    Château Bélingard is open to visitors, whether they be novices or connoisseurs, simple tourists or wine buffs.
    Normal opening hours are from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday to Friday, and from 10.30 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday, by appointment, by calling : (33) 553 58 28 03 or by E-mail at
    laurent.debosredon@wanadoo.fr













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    Saturday, August 19

    An evening at the Chateau de Biron



    Listening to Celtic music, whilst watching a blaze of stars against a black velvet sky, from the foot of the Chateau de Biron --------- the perfect makings of yet another memorable evening in La Belle France!


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    Friday, August 18

    Sunrise over the Dordogne from the Chateau Lalinde


    Waking up this morning and seeing the first rays from the sun on the view outside my bedroom window, once again, as it does every morning, took my breath away. Can anything be more beautiful than this?





    ....and there too, in the river in front of the chateau, was the evidence that someone did not quite make their end destination of their canoe outing!


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    Thursday, August 17

    Cepes : The magic of the giant French mushrooms

    We were peacefully sitting having the most delicious lunch in the bastide square of Monpazier, enjoying in particular the quiet and tranquillity after a morning of jostling with the hordes of tourists in every village and town that we had visited, and only just commenting on the fact that everyone seemed to have forgotten about Monpazier for the moment and what bliss it was to see the square so empty, when all of a sudden, as if from nowhere -- and almost as if pre-arranged, individuals started appearing from little side streets to converge under the beautiful rustic old grey beams of the halles -- each carrying small timber boxes brimful with big fat plump cèpes-- the giant wild forest mushrooms of the season.

    I asked one of the old characters how they all knew to come to the market on this specific day and at this specific time. His answer: the Gallic gesture of blowing through the lips, a shrug of the shoulders, the raising of the hand palms, and then rubbing the point of his nose and winking mischievously. But I persisted, not satisfied with the standard body language reply -- which could -- and usually does mean a zillion different things. "Fifteen days after the last rain the cèpes are out and big enough to be picked," he acquiesced. "So if you own a patch of forest, you go out and pick them and bring them to the village". "But HOW did you all know to come today and at THIS exact time?", I continued like a fox terrier who would not let go of that stick. Again the shrug and the hands and the rubbing of the nose, the smile and the wink -- and I knew at that moment that there will always be certain bits of folk lore and traditional custom of the region I am not likely to ever understand.
    However, the fresh pasta with cèpes Suzanna made for us that evening, with crusty fresh bread and an excellent crisp Graves wine, and the cèpes omelette with garlic and rosemary from my garden that I made the following morning, was food for the gods, and I thanked again my good fortune for living in a world where the importance of ancient customs and tradition might well all be shrugged off and left unexplained with a Gallic gesture, but nevertheless will always result in something so delicious that my mouth waters just writing about it a few days later......

    Something more about Le cèpe
    " Cep " is a gascon word which comes from the latin word meaning "trunk" -- a word which also signifies something strong and durable -- a good synonym for the foot of this giant mushroom. In this region of the Dordogne and Perigord, (and also the Gironde, Quercy and Limousin) the climate - the sun and the moisture and the vast areas of forest, the cèpe is completely at home. And yet -- it remains a magical mystery to man. Only a couple of hours is needed for this mushroom to grow to extreme proportions -- that is why, when we for instance bought our little box of cèpes, the farmer immediately told us at exactly what time those were picked that morning -- between 6:30 and 8:30! in other words, if he had waited until noon to pick them, they would have been twice or three times their size!

    This mystery which surrounds this amazing fungus adds to its magic. -- For example, it is said that no one has ever, ever been able to surprise one of these giants of the forest in the silence of the middle of the night to observe its rapid growth. Many have tried, but in vain. In the same empty spot where they had sat watching during the night, there would appear in the morning a giant mushroom, of up to 30cm in diameter and up to 1 metre in circumference! Truly a mystery! Pure magic! The "King of Mushrooms" grows between August and November, depending on the depth of the forest and the rain fall.


    The best way to enjoy the cèpes, is in an omelette and made with duck fat. And if you wonder about the richness of this dish, it is a dish enjoyed by the French at either lunch time or at the evening meal -- remember: the French are not into eating eggs at breakfast, so an omelette is most definitely for later in the day!





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    Ordering the coffee you want in your local Dordogne café



    There's your café terrace in the sun, just inviting you to sit down. But how do you order the coffee you want?
    Now that every English high street sports a coffee bar or two, we're used to ordering a latte or a "Large Capp". Starbucks has not, thank goodness! exactly made inroads into rural France. If you order a skinny latte in the Dordogne you'll get more than a bewildered look. Here is Antony Mair's - guide to the local terminology.
    "Un café" means a small black coffee – often described as "un petit café" or "un express". As that suggests, it's the equivalent of an expresso, although not with the kick you'll get from its Italian cousins. If you want something stronger, you should ask for "un serré", which is the equivalent of the Italian "ristretto" – a small black coffee of double strength.
    "Un grand café" or "un double express" means a large black coffee, or a double expresso.
    "Un crême" or even "un petit crême" means a small white coffee, that will come in an expresso-sized cup.
    Conversely, "un grand crême" means a large white coffee. Both "un crême" and "un grand crême" are used in preference to "un café au lait". However, if you are staying in a hotel, where coffee is served in a jug at your breakfast table, it is correct to ask for "café au lait chaud".
    "Un café noisette" means a black coffee with just a drop of milk in it – the equivalent of the Italian "macchiato" or the Portuguese "pingado".
    "Un cappuccino" will not necessarily deliver the frothy concoction you're used to. It may produce a black coffee with a large dollop of whipped cream in. This is, technically, a "café viennois". If you want your froth, you should specify "un cappuccino avec de la mousse au lait". It's not yet so popular as in the UK.
    "Un café américain" means a very weak black coffee. It is despised by the local French.
    If you want to follow French convention, you should not drink white coffee after eleven in the morning – and particularly not after mealtimes. A small black coffee is drunk after lunch. The French consider that white coffee after a meal is particularly bad for your digestion, and you may get a scandalised look from waiters. After dinner, many French will not touch coffee, to the point where it may not even be offered to you if you are dining out.
    If you want a cinnamon-flavoured skinny latte with a double shot - sorry, you'll have to wait until you get back to Starbucks in the UK!



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    Wednesday, August 16

    More Cyrano de Bergerac d'Edmond Rostand

    And here is the excerpt I was going to give you, before the brash Mr Gibson so rudely interrupted!


    Acte 1, scène IV, "la tirade du nez"
    CYRANO, imperturbable.
    C'est tout ?...

    LE VICOMTE
    Mais...

    CYRANO
    Ah ! non ! c'est un peu court, jeune homme !
    On pouvait dire... Oh! Dieu!... bien des choses en somme.
    En variant le ton,-par exemple, tenez:
    Agressif: " Moi, Monsieur, si j'avais un tel nez,
    Il faudrait sur-le-champ que je me l'amputasse ! "
    Amical: " Mais il doit tremper dans votre tasse !
    Pour boire, faites-vous fabriquer un hanap! "
    Descriptif: " C'est un roc ! . .. c'est un pic ! . . . c'est un cap !
    Que dis-je, c'est un cap ?. .. C'est une péninsule ! "
    Curieux: " De quoi sert cette oblongue capsule ?
    D'écritoire, Monsieur, ou de boite à ciseaux ? "
    Gracieux: " Aimez-vous à ce point les oiseaux
    Que paternellement vous vous préoccupâtes
    De tendre ce perchoir à leurs petites pattes ? "
    Truculent: " Ça, Monsieur, lorsque vous pétunez,
    La vapeur du tabac vous sort-elle du nez
    Sans qu'un voisin ne crie au feu de cheminée ? "
    Prévenant: " Gardez-vous, votre tête entrainée
    Par ce poids, de tomber en avant sur le sol ! "
    Tendre: " Faites-lui faire un petit parasol
    De peur que sa couleur au soleil ne se fane ! "
    Pédant: " L'animal seul, Monsieur, qu'Aristophane
    Appelle Hippocampelephantocamelos
    Dût avoir sous le front tant de chair sur tant d'os ! "
    Cavalier: " Quoi, I'ami, ce croc est à la mode ?
    Pour pendre son chapeau, c'est vraiment très commode! " ,
    Emphatique: " Aucun vent ne peut, nez magistral,
    T'enrhumer tout entier, excepté le mistral ! "
    Dramatique: " C'est la Mer Rouge quand il saigne ! "
    Admiratif: " Pour un parfumeur, quelle enseigne ! "
    Lyrique: " Est-ce une conque, êtes-vous un triton ? "
    Naïf: " Ce monument, quand le visite-t-on ? "
    Respectueux: " Souffrez, Monsieur, qu'on vous salue,
    C'est là ce qui s'appelle avoir pignon sur rue! "
    Campagnard: " He, arde ! C'est-y un nez ? Nanain !
    C'est queuqu'navet géant ou ben queuqu'melon nain ! "
    Militaire: " Pointez contre cavalerie ! "
    Pratique: " Voulez-vous le mettre en loterie ?
    Assurément, Monsieur, ce sera le gros lot! "
    Enfin, parodiant Pyrame en un sanglot:
    " Le voilà donc ce nez qui des traits de son maître
    A détruit l'harmonie! Il en rougit, le traître! "
    - Voilà ce qu'à peu près, mon cher, vous m'auriez dit
    Si vous aviez un peu de lettres et d'esprit:
    Mais d'esprit, ô le plus lamentable des êtres,
    Vous n'en eûtes jamais un atome, et de lettres
    Vous n'avez que les trois qui forment le mot: sot!
    Eussiez-vous eu, d'ailleurs, I'invention qu'il faut
    Pour pouvoir là, devant ces nobles galeries,
    Me servir toutes ces folles plaisanteries,
    Que vous n'en eussiez pas articulé le quart
    De la moitié du commencement d'une, car
    Je me les sers moi-même, avec assez de verve
    Mais je ne permets pas qu'un autre me les serve.


    DE GUICHE, voulant emmener le vicomte pétrifié.
    Vicomte, laissez donc !


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    La Tirade du nez : Cyrano de Bergerac comes to Lalinde (and Mel Gibson makes a guest appearance in my blog!)

    !My intention was to give you a little excerpt from "La Tirade du nez" of Edmond de Rostand -- the story of Cyrano de Bergerac, he of the Big Nose fame -- and a classical and brilliant political satire of the time. And such is the vagaries of internet research -- instead of finding the script of the play and a bit of the rapier wit of Rostand, I came across a blog entitled The Nose on Your Face -- News so fake you'll swear it came from the mainstream media and the following transcript, posted by Buckley F. Williams, of the recent arrest of Mel Gibson! The blog can be given a skip, but this post is well worth a quick chucklish read!
    The saga of Mel Gibson's DUI arrest took an unexpected turn today when the transcript of the arresting officer's conversation with the acclaimed actor/producer was leaked to the public.
    "I was a bit starstruck at first when I pulled him over," said the arresting officer, L.A. County Sheriff's Deputy James Mee. "I mean, this was Mel-freakin'-Gibson. I've been a huge fan of his since I was a kid. But after talking to him for about five seconds I realized that this was going to be business as usual."
    Suspecting that there might be trouble, Deputy Mee made the decision to audiotape the encounter:
    Deputy Mee: Do you know why I pulled you over Mr. Gibson?
    Mel Gibson: I answer to no man. And who is this 'Mr. Gibson' you speak of with such familiarity?
    Deputy Mee: The way you were driving you almost hit that guy a few miles back.
    Mel Gibson: He looked English to me.
    Deputy Mee: If he hadn't jumped out of the way he'd be dead!
    Mel Gibson: Aye, if he had stayed in my path he might have died, and if I drove sober he'd likely live. At least a while. And dying in his bed many years from now, would he be willing to trade all the nights from this night to that for one chance, just one chance, to stay out of the *&$?/ road while I was driving?!?!?
    Deputy Mee: He was on the sidewalk when your car jumped the curb.
    Mel Gibson: Lies!
    Deputy Mee: License and registration please.
    Mel Gibson: Did the vile fiend Edward the Long-shanks produce a license when he instituted his policies of theft, rape and murder on my countrymen?
    Deputy Mee: Your countrymen?
    Mel Gibson: Aye. My fellow Scotsmen.
    Deputy Mee: Ummm... your Australian aren't you?
    Mel Gibson: I answer to none save the Almighty.
    Deputy Mee: Please step out of the car slowly and leave your hands where I can see them Mr. Gibson.
    Mel Gibson: I think not. From what I've heard thus far, I have reason enough to suspect that you are merely a pawn of the Long-shanks.
    Deputy Mee: Are you disobeying a direct order from a police officer?
    Mel Gibson: From your kind? Absolutely. Here are my terms. Lower your weapon, and drive your iron horse straight back to your garrison stopping on your way to give a bottle of Glenfiddich to every Scotsman you see...
    Deputy Mee: (Into his radio) I'm gonna need some back up on this one.
    Mel Gibson: ...along the way. Do this and you may live. Do it not and I'll cut your *&%!?/ off! (Pulling out a six-foot sword)... You may take my life... but you'll never take... my car keysssss!!!!
    Deputy Mee: Better make it quick.
    End of transcript.

    But back to Cyrano! Last Thursday we were delighted with a visit from the man himself -- albeit with the help of the appropriately large plastic nose -- the sheer wealth of knowledge of Rostand's work both in French and English -- and, of course, his red boots -- more than made up for that!I never got the real name of the actor - he was that convincing, (and his RED boots were that deliciously decadently gorgeous! -- that I simply continued to address him by the name of Cyrano! But by all means, I strongly recommend you contact him at ofil@wanadoo.fr if you want excellent entertainment at your next event, dinner party or get-together of friends. He will regale, delight and thrill you with his quick repartee and outstanding performance of La Tirade du Nez -- or the Tirade of the Nose, by Edmond Rostand (and the boots)!






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    Activity Holidays : Canoeing

    One of the many activities one can do whilst enjoying the beautiful summer months in the Dordogne, is kayaking or canoeing.
    For the princely sum of no more than €12, you can hire a lovely colourful kayak or canoe, for one to four people, and glide down the gorgeous Dordogne River, pretending to be a Viking coming to look for troglodyte communities to raid, or a medieval prince coming to visit a beautiful princess, or an athlete training for the Iron Man Marathon -- or just exactly who you really are -- a visiting tourist enjoying the incredible beauty of the Perigord!
    The activity here is developed to a fine art. From Bergerac to Sarlat there are dozens of places where one can hire a kayak or canoe for any length of time -- from one hour to one day. It is in fact hard to choose which spot to go to as every stretch of the Dordogne River is so beautiful and has such a variety of things to see along the river banks. Chateaux perching on hills, little hamlets glued to sides of cliffs, pre-historic caves carved out of the lime stone, trees, fish, birds, bridges, flowers --- and an impression of the river - from the river - that is so completely different than from the road or river bank.
    The most pleasant surprise to me was the crystal clarity and cleanliness of the river itself. Even in areas where the river is up to a few metres deep, one can see in the most minute detail every little pebble and plant and creature at the bottom of the river bed.
    And believe me, that is important, for every now and then you need to pull out the oar, take a rest and catch your breath! Even though the hiring companies make it as easy for you as is possible -- either by driving you and your vessel upstream so that you can start from as many hours away as you wish, or fetching you downstream from wherever you have arrived and you therefore only have to paddle down stream -- it still is hard work! I think if one could choose the day more carefully than I did, it would be useful -- as the day I went canoeing with friends, there was a strong breeze coming upstream, which meant that we had to paddle for all our worth just to keep moving against the breeze and not go back one metre for every metre that we had paddled forward!The trip we were told should take us two and half hours, ended up taking almost four hours – and I can assure you, we were rowing as hard and fast as was possible!
    But – there is no need to have to work that hard!
    I would suggest that for your very first trip – as mine was for me -- you choose the stretch of water that you want to do carefully;
    **– choose a stretch where the river flows a little faster
    **- choose a calm day with as little breeze as possible (and remember that a mild breeze on land is a strong breeze in the deep valley of the river – which very much seems to turn into a wind tunnel!) – and if you have no choice and there is a breeze, then make sure at least that it is not a westerly breeze!
    **- choose the shortest possible stretch in the area where you want to go. For your second and subsequent outings, you can lengthen the stretches.
    **- choose an area where there are sites that you want to see from the river. If trees and birds do not interest you, choose a stretch where there are more villages and buildings.
    – All of the river is beautiful – you will not be disappointed with whichever stretch you choose!



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    Monday, August 7

    Lascaux : 30,000 B.C. The Birthplace of Animation


    Even during these busy months when so many people stream into this area, I am only too happy to take visitors to the Lascaux Caves to show them the most amazingly complex and technically developed paintings of our forefathers of 15-17000 years ago
    .

    Useful Information
    Location: Dordogne, near Montignac.
    Open: The original cave closed to the public but
    Lascaux II: daily,summer season daily; outside summer season closed on Mondays.
    Daily English tours. Tours with guide only, lasts 40 minutes
    Fee: €7.00
    Classification: Karst cave, with prehistoric paintings.
    Light: electric.
    Dimension: 1,800 figures.

    History : September 1940, the 17,000 years old paintings were discovered by four young boys whose dog, Robot, had gone down a rabbit hole. According to one account, on September 8, 1940, 17-year-old Marcel Ravidat and three of his friends were looking for a lost treasure supposedly buried in a secret tunnel. His dog Robot ran on ahead and became stuck in a hole. As the boys pulled Robot to safety, they discovered that the hole seemed bottomless -- in fact, the entrance to a tunnel going underground. They explored the tunnel and found the paintings. After keeping the secret for three days, they told their teacher about it, who contacted Henry Breuil, the archelogical historian of note. In 1948 the caves were opened to the public, but when it was discovered that the constant flow of people brought with them carbon monoxide, fungi, dust, pollen and spores, a rise in temperature, change of humidity, and other deadly organisms -- deadly for fragile cave paintings, the caves were again closed to the public in 1963. By this time there was already a form of algae growing on the paintings, which could be successfully treated and removed, but fortunately they were closed just before the White Sickness started affecting the paintings.

    To allow the visitors to see the cave paintings anyway, an exact facsimile called Lascaux II was built just 200m from the original cave. In Lascaux II, two galleries -- the Bulls Room and the central corridor, have been reproduced exactly -- to the very finest detail -- in itself a wondrous work of immense talent and art. The construction of the replica was a chance for scientists to prove their knowledge how the paintings were made. Inside a shell in reinforced concrete, with the contours of the cave inside, the paintings were executed in the same manner, using the same types of materials believed to have been used 17,000 years ago. These were natural pigments like ochre, charcoal, and iron oxides.

    Today only a handful of scientists and researchers are allowed to visit Lascaux I each year and the visit will last about 30 minutes only.



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    Sunday, August 6

    La Fete a l'Ancienne at Cales



    Driving into the hills this afternoon, I visited the biennial celebration of traditional arts and crafts in the tiny hamlet of Cales. Lace making, pewter work, flint stone tools, paper making, pottery, basket weaving, musical instruments, farming, honey cultivation, porcelain painting, corn threshing, wood carving, vat making, wine making, (the best crepes in the world ever!) cider and sausages, ironmongery, --- you name the art or craft, and there was someone there demonstrating it.
    The streets of the hamlet were decked out in all its finery -- a million intricate and detailed paper flowers adorned the buildings and formed blazingly colourful vaulted ceilings above. Again the powerfully strong Perigordine music echoed through the hills and the dancers seem to be tireless in their whirls and twirls and complicated steps -- executed in their beautiful traditional costumes and their cumbersome clogs seeming to take on the lightness of silk ballet shoes.


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