What to do with Truffles (should you be so lucky to get one!)

A perfect truffle should be firm, have a good aroma and full of taste. It breathes and absorbs oxygen and rejects carbon dioxide and other gases containing its aroma. After a while it oxidates and loses its aroma. It is this clear that once ripe, it should be eaten as soon as possible, whence the need to buy straight from the market, or from retailers with recent supplies.

The Truffe noire du Périgord fresh and grated improves everything that is in contact with it. It goes very well with celery, shallots, and well reduced sweet onions, artichokes, avocados, jerusalem artichokes.

It is important to trap its aroma, either in fats such as oil, butter, cream, or by infusion in a sauce or it should be added at the end of cooking, or enclosed in puff pastry, brioche, bread, or in slivers under the skin of poultry.

The best Brumales can be used in sauces. Aestivum is only used grated pasta and risotto.



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The 'Black Pearls' of St Alevere

Twenty minutes from Lalinde is the picturesque little village of St Alvère, the main centre of all things truffle!

The Sainte Ste-Alvère region, historical domain of the Lostanges, is on the South Western edge of the Périgord Noir. A hilly area, whose limestone slopes are the natural home of the truffle.

Towards the end of the 60's, many abandoned farms were bought by people from outside the area. They considered growing truffles, particularly as scientific progress had brought into being a new generation of truffle host plants, enabling more rapid production. Once their efficiency had been proven many more farmers took up truffle-growing. In 1987, a little while after the renovation of Ste Alvère market a truffle market was opened, through the initiative of the mayor, Mr Philippe Ducène, and several producers seeking new business openings. Now producers come from all over the Dordogne and neighbouring departments, attracted by favourable trading conditions, resulting from unprecedented efforts in obtaining quality and good presentation.

To keep up with the needs of the market and to promote its aims the Ste Alvère Town Council decided to use new technologies and put the Truffle Market on Internet, using the first real "truffle server" in France.


What is a truffle ?

The truffle is a fungus hypogée (growing underground). It forms in Spring between April and June. When it is born it has the form of a tiny cup ( stade apothécioïde ), of which the edges will close up and form the Tuber. The interior of the Tuber will grow veines stériles then veines fertiles. This whole autonomous ensemble is the gleba (body) of the truffle, coloured white, and covered with a skin ornamented with small warts or scales which, as well as protecting the tuber, contributes to its respiration and nutrition.


After a period of inactivity, the hot periods in July ( thermal stress ) and the storms in August ( or irrigation ), will set off the growing cycle. If the amount of water and heat are optimal, the nearly finished size will be attained at the beginning of September . Inside the gleba, the number of of asques ( sacks containing the spores ) will increase. First hyalines (nearly transparent the spores, which represent the seed of the fungus, will little by little brown during the melanisation process, which will end by the acquisition of aroma and the maturity of the fungae.

If the truffles are not harvested, they will degrade and rot, setting free asques which, under various influences will set free (or not) the spores. The biological will continue with the germination of a certain number of spores, liberating of'hyphes ( primary mycélium ) likely to infect the rootlets of the symbiote ( truffle host tree ) by giving birth to new mycorrhizes.
The mycorrhizes are the organs of symbiose (symbiosis) between the tree and the fungae. The link between the fungus and the roots is established from a a inter-cellular network called the Hartig network. The mycorrhizes emit colonising hyphes which pass the infection on to to other root apices and, replacing the absorbing hairs, will explore the soil, looking for mineral elements.

It is at the level of the mycorrhizes that the nutritional exchanges of the symbiosis take place. The tree gives sugar to the truffle (carbon hydrates) resulting from photosynthesis, while the fungus provides mineral salts (phosphorus) for the tree. It helps the tree to support high calcium levels and better manage its water supplies. If the hyphes stay outside the cortical cells of the root they are ectomycorhizes the case of the truffle Inside they are endomycorhyzes.
These symbiotic organs are called mycorrhizes. As soon as they are formed they emit colonising hyphes which transmit the infection to other apex roots; which propagate by the root cortex.

The fruiting is preceded by the phenomenon of "brûlé", due among other things to a phytotoxic process which inhibits the germination of certain seeds.
The fructification begins by the modification of the arrangement of the mycéliens filaments which will gather together in a special structure with a cellular appearance.

Several possibilities may be at the origin of the fructification from endogenic or exogenic causes: the degree of mycorrhizian colonisation( glomérules stages), accumulation of nutritional reserves sexual processes between mycéliums, stress. The suddenness, brutality and force of certain stresses can often be beneficial at certain stages of its biological cycle it is possible to say that truffle is the daughter of change.


The ecology of the truffle : The life and death of the roots in the soil take part in its permanent transformation. The living roots enter the cycle of organic matter and help improve the fertility of of the environment necessary for the development of the fungus. The mésofauna will do its indispensible work of chopping up, digestion, aeration and nutrition where the mélanosporum will prosper.

Trees for truffles :Among the known symbiotes of the truffle, oaks, holm oaks, hornbeam, hazelnut trees and colurna, the others being more exotic, it cannot be said that there are better or worse trees. The importance is to choose one that is adapted and recognised for its performance in a given soil and climate. We cannot enlarge on this vast subject in this summary. The bibliography which we suggest will help to master the question.


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Chateau Lalinde : The perfect venue for your event

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Listen and enjoy!

A beautiful piece of Music: From the soundtrack of one of the most thought-provoking films, The Constant Gardener, (2005) Kothbiro performed by Ayub Ogada from Alberto Iglesias' score. No copyright infringement intended.




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At last! A new English newspaper in the Dordogne!

As reported earlier, we were promised a new newspaper and it has arrived!
And -- it is fabulous!

This is what Nicki Wade - Owner & Publisher, has to say about the new paper:

Our goal is simple - to be France's quality national newspaper in English. To achieve this the paper has four distinctive sections; The 'main paper' has the latest news and critical analysis from across the country, with expert comment, provocative debate and highly practical advice.

The 'Living' section celebrates all that is great about living in France - from food and wine to travelling and culture - and reveals how others have managed to forge new lives here.

There is a whole section dedicated to 'Kids' to cater for the growing number of families settling in France; and the 'Work & Money' section is packed with practical financial advice and stories about running a business or being employed in France.

Our first issue has a strong summer flavour with great reads on the best places to visit, three great holidays to win and much much more. To be in with a chance of winning simply buy a copy of the paper to take part.

In this issue of the 'Main Paper'
Has France fallen out of love with wine?, When workers 'bossnap' their managers, Tax windfall hope for second homeowners, French Etiquette and the making of Audrey Tautou.

In 'Living'
Celebrities & French experts reveal their favourite holiday hotspots; the best beach, the loveliest walk, the most beautiful village and more! Jean-Louis Hervois gives us his guide to having the perfect Gallic summer, PLUS great features on food, lifestyle, gardening and wildlife.

In 'Work & Money'
Women who mean business, your auto-entrepreneur checklist, making exchange rates work for you, plus Q&A advice on a wide range of work and money issues.

In 'KidsPaper'
Hannah Montana reveals her favourite things, Alasdair Hewitt, 9, tells us what he likes about France, plus kids crossword, suduko, wordsearch and more.

Hot off the press
Last week we saw the first issues being printed and what an amazing feeling it was to witness 8 months of hard work finally realised. If you'd like to see how it was printed click here to watch the film.

Survey results
Thank you to those who took part in our survey - results will be revealed in the next issue – we'll be notifying the 100 lucky winners of a free subscription shortly.

Have you...
Got an interesting story to tell? An event in your area you'd like us to put on our 'What's On' page? Kids who want to get involved in our kids pages? Or, simply want to give us feedback on our first issue? Well we want to hear from you - the more you get involved, the better the paper will be. Email us.

Sign up to our newsletter!
Response has been brilliant but we would like more. If you know anyone who should be getting this email then please Forward to a Friend so they can sign up too. There is still a chance to win €1000 - everyone who signs up will be entered into our prize draw.

Finally we hope you enjoy your first issue of theFrenchPaper and if you need help locating your nearest stockist get in touch and we'll point you in the right direction.

Happy Reading!

Nicki Wade

Nicki Wade is an award-winning magazine publisher with more than 18 years experience in the consumer publishing industry.

She currently publishes and edits the highly successful regional lifestyle magazine Living Poitou-Charentes. Prior to life in France she worked for EMAP – one of the UK’s largest consumer magazine publishers and is a self-confessed magazine addict! Nicki has lived in France for five years near Cognac in South West France with her two children and three dogs.

If you want to contact Nicki, write to : nicki@thefrenchpaper.com

Good luck Nicki -- we are all delighted!


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Ah! Bliss! The joys of living in the Dordogne continue.....

To celebrate a special birthday, a small group of friends will be enjoying a dinner and private concert tomorrow night in a gorgeous chateau on the Dordogne -- just for us! -- by Bertrand Pierre.


Take a look and listen to the treat that awaits us!

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Le Dorlou : Fun Ralley in the Dordogne: 21 May 2009

Cause de Clérans : Rallye touristique "Le Dorlou"

On Thursday, 21 May 2009, also Ascension Day -- the first 'official' day of summer in the Dordogne, we are going to do something mad, something fun : The Communauté de Communes «Entre Dordogne et Louyre» organises a touristic ralley, called «Le DorLou» starting in Cause de Clerans at 9:00am. It is not a speed race -- at least not the speed of your car! But the speed of your thinking is important -- and how fast you can solve the riddles at each stop, figure out the answer hidden in the poem, piece of history, snippet of local knowledge and then where to go next.
The only qualification is that you have to have a vehicle -- after all, it is no good if you have solved the riddle and know the name of the next stop, but you cannot get there! -- and you have to be at least two in the vehicle.

€5- per team, bring a detailed map of the area, any information/history/local knowledge (might be a good idea to kidnap a local historian or sage for the day and hide him or her in your boot), a compass, a measuring tape (?) paper and pen, dictionary and of course, your sense of humour!
Also bring your own picnic as everyone will get together at lunch time for the meal.
In the evening there will be a dance and celebration with the fabulous group Hysope as well as a lovely well-deserved meal for the cost of €15.
Further information: Call 06.17.67.34.46




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France celebrates old traditions: This weekend we show off our mills --- with pride!

Amazing! -- it is already that time of the year again -- and once again the Weekend of the Dordogne-Perigord Mills was a huge success!


This year, once again, 21 beautiful ancient wind- and water flour mills to look at.

I would have loved to have gone to see more, but only had time for four -- mills in various state of repair and restoration. I visited one wind mill -- that of Le Bournat at Le Bugue, which is in a perfect condition, being there all year round for visitors to come and admire. I then drove some distance through the most beautiful countryside, tine narrow lanes and thick oak forests. to finally arrive at Le Coux and Le Moulin de Ladiere which sits on the Le Boule stream. Here I was welcomed by a gorgeous farmyard of horses, chickens and a delightful Billy Goat --- and a charming young man who acted as a most informative guide, explaining the entire intricate workings of a water mill with enthusiasm and an obvious pride and pleasure. From there I continued on along the Dordogne river to Vezac where I visited the almost completely restored Moulin de L'Eveque which is situated on a tributary of the Dordogne, namely the Pontou. My last port of call was close to home, the mill of Lalinde -- which is in fact just outside Sauveboeuf, Le Moulin du Milieu a Sauveboeuf. This mill has been restored to its pristine original state and is in full working order -- a fascinating process to watch -- in particular as one realises that what you see is exactly what one would have seen 500 years ago! Several happy visitors walked away with soft white flour which had been milled right there in front of them.



This is one industry which is nowhere near ready to hang up its boots!




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Drop the stiff upper lip if you want to learn to speak French!

Aquitaine Langues in the news : Albert Croce, from the highly rated Bergerac language school, gives expats some excellent advice!

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What’s Kafka-esque and French ?

I went to have a look on the French News site to see if there is any 'good' news about the newspaper yet --- French News was an excellent newspaper in the region edited by Miranda Neame, which very unfortunately went under in December 2008. I did find the 'good' news, namely that the newspaper was bought and that their may be even better news about the future of the newspaper soon. I do hope so -- as it was an excellent English newspaper for the many Anglophones in the Dordogne-Perigord!

While I was there, the above title caught my eye. I have recently been very busy trying to come to grips with the frighteningly confuzzling French Tax System, so the mention of Kafka and French Tax in the same title was prefectly logical to me. But I needed to read the rest. --- I am sure, even if you do not live here and have had no experience with French Tax, you would love the little vignette by Andy Crawford!


Thursday, 11 December 2008


Question: What's Kafka-esque and French?

Réponse: A VISIT TO THE LOCAL TAX OFFICE

Scene 1 – Main reception

Bonjour Madame – I have a quick question – should a sporting club register with the tax office?

Bonjour Monsieur - You need to go to the reception on the second floor

Scene 2 – Second floor reception

Bonjour Madame - I have a quick question – should a sporting club register with the tax office?

Bonjour Monsieur – You need to see our specialist – go to room 405

Scene 3 – Room 405

Bonjour Madame - I have a quick question – should a sporting club register with the tax office?

Bonjour Monsieur – Are you known to us?

No

Then I can’t answer your question

OK, can you tell me who can answer the question?

That depends - have you received gifts?

Yes

Have you given receipts for the gifts?

Yes

Ha – you do not have the right to give receipts.

Can you tell me how to get the right to give receipts for gifts?

You will have to visit the Departmental Tax Office.

And they will tell me how to get the right to give receipts for gifts?

I can’t answer that.

But if go and see them they will tell me what I should do to get the right to give a receipt for gifts?

It is possible you will not have the right

What will they take into account to decide?

I can’t answer that

Ok, I’ll go and see them and ask the question

Are you known to them?

No

Then they will not be able to answer your questions

So will I have to register with them first?

That will not be possible unless you are known to us here

So I can’t get an answer here before I’ve been to the departmental office, but they won’t give an answer until I’m known to you here?

LONG PAUSE

I’ll give you a form to fill in – PAUSE WHILE FORM IS BROUGHT

If you fill in all the details of your association and bring it back here, then when they ask you at HQ if you are known here, you can say Yes.

But this is not registering?

No, it will just be so you are known to us. LOOKING AT FORM. This section needs a Siren number – to get a Siren number you need to fill in all your details and send the form to this address, they will send you back a Siren Number, which you can then send to this second address along with all your details, and they will send a Siret number.

I already have a Siren number

I thought you said you were not known to us

I am known to someone

But not us

So I will fill in my details, and my Siren number, and bring this back to you, and then ask HQ to be registered with them so they can answer how I can get the right to give receipts for gifts.

Yes.

And if they say OK, what then?

Then come back and see us here and register with us

Then will you be able to answer my question?

Which question?

Whether I need to register with you.

from Andy Crawford, president of Tarn Cricket Club


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The "Chaiz' tival" at Issigeac

On Sunday, Issigeac was the venue for an innovative new event: A chair festival. Anyone could collect a chair from the Information Centre, go to a specified spot somewhere in the village and decorate the chair in any way they wished. A map was available with the 30 spots where the artists were at work and in this clever way you got to discover every lovely little street in the village -- as well as some very talented artists. The chairs were then auctioned off at 5pm -- half of the proceeds going to the village visitors' centre and half ro the artists.





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Darden Smith performs for us in the Dordogne

A Fabulous music event in the Dordogne!

Martin Lascelles, record producer and gifted key board artist, who has left the wild world of music production behind in London and come to settle with his gorgeous wife, Charmaine, in the exquisite family home near Monbazillac, will be hosting a musical soiree with the Texan singer-songwriter, Darden Smith as guest artist. (Martin has performed and produced for Darden) Of interest to the music aficionados of the Dordogne Perigord, is that Darden will be joined on the evening by guest Paul Tiernan, who lives in Duras.

Darden Smith is performing in Paris on 6 May and then coming down to the Dordogne to perform here in a house concert on 9 May.

From Darden Smith's website, we gleaned the following:
Darden Smith was once describe as an explorer. This fits. During his 20-year career, he has recorded in folk, country and pop settings. He has co-written songs with a British rocker, released 10 critically acclaimed albums, created works for dance theater, done symphonic collaborations and through his Be An Artist Program, brought to children across the US and Europe the message of the inherent creative capabilities in everyone. His song cycle, ‘Marathon’ is currently being adapted for the stage. Darden Smith has made himself at home in studios in Manhattan, Nashville and London, as well as Austin. With every CD he releases his focus and style continues to shift, yet remains true to his roots.

His latest studio recording, ‘Field of Crows,’ was released in 2005 on Dualtone Music Group. As melodic a collection as he has ever recorded, the disc shows Smith continuing to explore rhythms, sounds and lyric themes. As it has on all of his recent Dualtone albums, his work on the nylon-string guitar adds a distinctive texture to the music. In 2006 he recorded a series of concerts in an adobe house at Ojo Caliente Hot Springs in New Mexico. The result is ‘Ojo,’ his first live disc.

Born in 1962, Darden Smith was raised in rural Brenham, Texas. He says that Leon Russell’s ‘Carney’ LP of 1972 was one of his earliest musical influences. When he was in the fifth grade, Smith’s guitar teacher taught him all the songs on Neil Young’s ‘Harvest’ and ‘After the Gold Rush’ albums. She explained to the boy that Young was the composer of his songs.

“That was the first time it clicked to me that every song is written by somebody,” Smith recalls. “I was already writing poetry at the time. When she told me ‘it’s just poems and put to music,’ well, that was all I needed to hear.”

When he was in junior high, his family moved to suburban Houston. Culture shocked and out-of-place, the former farm boy sat in his room and wrote songs constantly from that point onward. Smith studied the songs of writers such as Guy Clark, Townes Van Zant and John Prine. He listened to the radio and had his head spun around by Bob Dylan, The Allman Brothers and Jackson Browne. While still in high school, he began playing in clubs around north Houston, and by the time he graduated from the University of Texas in Austin, Darden Smith was a fully realized talent and a regular on stages in the city’s thriving nightclub scene.

“I pride myself in being a Texas singer-songwriter. It’s who I am, and I will never get away from that. But that world was all I knew until I met Boo Hewerdine. I’d never created music outside of my little niche. But I was listening to things like Elvis Costello, Nick Lowe and The Pretenders. And the experience with Boo showed me that I could write music from a broader place than I had ever done before.”

After years of one success after another, Smith considered getting out of the music business. “It was just too damned hard,” he says, looking back on those years. “The travel, having two young kids, trying to figure out how to make a living and still enjoy it all. I didn’t have a label, manager, agent, nothing. I couldn’t figure it out.” Over dinner in New York City in 2000, producer Stewart Lerman and drummer Sammy Merendino recommended that, before quitting, he do just one more record, but do it only to have fun. Smith began writing and recording purely out of the love of making music, and through that, fell back in love with the process and continued to produce successfully.

Paul Tiernan.
His newest theatre work is ‘Marathon’, a play based on a song-cycle, is being developed in association with the University of Texas’ Performing Arts Center. A radio documentary on Texas songwriters that he created for the BBC2, ‘Songs From The Big Sky‚’ aired in March 2006. His ongoing Be an Artist Program puts him in workshops, helping children see that they are all born artists and that creativity is inside all of us (www.be-an-artist.com).

About his extraordinary career, Darden Smith says, “I don’t worry about a lot of the stuff I used to worry about. I just go. I just want to work and make music, and that may look different on different days. After 20 years in this crazy business, I realize how fortunate I am to be able to make a living being a musician, doing what I love to do.”

BOOK NOW AND AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT!
For tickets for the Darden Smith soiree, please contact Martin Lascelles at martin.lascelles@aliceadsl.fr
Darden Smith performs in house concert at Les Croux, Monbazillac on 9 May 2009


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A wonderful B&B in South Australia

One of the many pleasures of welcoming visitors to the Dordogne region into my home, Chateau Lalinde, is meeting lovely,interesting, diverse and talented people! Over the three years that I have been running this business, I have had the privilege of getting to know some amazing new friends.

One such recent guest runs the wonderful Battunga, ('A place of tall trees'), a Bed and Breakfast in the Clare Valley in South Australia.

“Imagine awakening to the soft chorus of kookaburras, strolling amongst the majestic gums in the hills, viewing the resident kangaroos, cycling on the adjacent Riesling Trail, supping on the local wines or just relaxing with a Clare Valley port by the wood fire.”

Battunga offers romance, peace, scenic beauty and relaxation, far from the maddening crowd on a privately owned farm of 200 acres. Just 2 km west of the historic village of Watervale, it is ideally placed central to the wineries of the Clare Valley.


Select cottage accommodation for 2 to 12 people in 4 stylish apartments.

* Perfect for a romantic weekend getaway for couples

* A Special Place for a small group gathering, intimate wedding party, special birthday or anniversary

Be sure to make a note of this address for the next time you travel to that part of the world!



Battunga Bed and Breakfast

Hosts: Joylene & Peter Kenny

Phone: +61 (08) 88430120

Mobile: 0400884317

Email: battunga@chariot.net.au

Web: www.battunga.com.au

Address: Skilly Rd, Watervale 5452

Postal Address:
PO Box 84, Watervale 5452






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Recipe for an exotic and delicious Curry Banana Soup

This is a recipe that is just so delicious that it comes with a warning: If you have made and served it once, you will be obliged to do so again and again and again. Everyone is made about it and cannot get enough of it! So, unless you are prepared to have your friends clamouring for more, don't even think about making it!

Brigitte's Spicy Banana Soup :

Butter, 1 onion, 1 clove of garlic, cardamom, ginger, chilli, cumin, chicken stock (1 ¼ l), cream/fleurette (1/4 l), 3 ripe bananas, curry powder, Noilly Prat (Vermouth)

Brown the onions and garlic in butter. Stir the bananas in pieces in with the curry. Add a shot of Noilly Prat and fill up with chicken stock, add all the herbs.

Make it smooth with a mixer. When ready, add the cream (don`t cook it any more then).

Serves 6 people.

(I also add a small pot of natural yoghurt which adds to the creaminess but breaks down the richness of the cream.)

Bon appetit!

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Follow the posters!

Just two of the many events in the Dordogne -- always something new, something interesting, something to do!
Watch this space for feed-back on these two events -- one creative, the other reminiscent of a time we all thought was long gone....



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Way back in May 2007 I posted this little article:
1 May: The Chelsea Flower Show comes to Lalinde!
I have always associated the First of May with Labour Day, the Day of the Workers, red flags with hammers and sickles, soldiers goose marching through the Red Square in the Kremlin, fist brandishing and banner waving demonstrations in the Place de la Bastille, calls to arms and passionate orators.
And then I moved to Lalinde, a gorgeous little village on the banks of the Dordogne River in the Southwest of France........
We do it differently here. On the First of May we have a flower market in the square opposite the mayor's office. The only red you will see is not the hammer and sickle flag, but the bright red of the geraniums and the verbenas. The only marching you will see is the row upon row of basil and rosemary and mint and oregano. The workers will be there – but preparing delicious plates with salad and charcuterie for the sellers and the buyers, and the only passionate oration you will hear is the discussion on whether Pierre's new yellow Impatience is as spectacular as Jean-Luc's new purple rose.

Oh! I do love living in the country!

And yes! I reiterate those sentiments now in May 2009! Yesterday, once again the lovely open area amongst the trees in front of the Lalinde mairie came alive with every kind of plant and flower of the region and the gardeners of the Dordogne came to look for the new and interesting and gloriously beautiful with which to adorn their lovely gardens.

Interestingly the market was substantially smaller than previous years -- and the words mexicaine, grippe, flu, have you heard..... were often heard amongst the plant-carrying customers. Not that a scary flu is going to halve an annual flower market, of course, but the worldwide financial crisis might -- as the people of the beautiful Dordogne Perigord, where the local economy is heavily reliant on tourism and visitors to the region, are most definitely starting to feel the pinch in more ways than one.

But --- we will survive -- and where better to survive than in this most wonderful corner of our beautiful planet!




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