Fermes Auberges: Bastions of tradition and gastronomic excellence

There are few places left where traditions and gastronomic excellence are life styles rather than values but the Chateau Lalinde Blog takes us to such a place in the heart of the Dordogne.

For most people the move to a foreign country would be traumatic enough - adjusting to a new culture, a new language, a new way of life is in itself difficult to do, no matter how easy and laid back you may be. But probably the biggest adjustment - the biggest culture shock - and one that not many think of when planning their Big Move, is the adjustment from city life to country living.

After having lived a lifetime in big cities, I knew there would be a change in life style when I moved into the country. I expected a slower pace, a different approach to life in general, a more relaxed routine, less rush and less stress, more fresh air and more freedom. I was ready to change my life accordingly; whether I was adequately prepared for it though, is another matter altogether. And perhaps just as well, as the result of my ‘inadequate preparation’ was that for the last 18 months in my newly adopted country, I have not had a single day go by without a wonderful little surprise, a delightful new discovery, a touch of wonder and a large dose of awe.

No cross cultural awareness course or relocation lecture could – or should – reveal all these wondrous things that come your way out here in the provinces. It is in making the discoveries oneself that add the spice and the excitement to the journey.

One of the exclamations my city slicker friends often make when I go on and on singing the praises of the pleasures of country living, is “But what about eating out! Don’t you miss the fine dining of the city restaurants?”

Fine dining? Eating out? I bite my tongue, and wonder..... Do I honestly want to let out one of the best kept secrets of life in the provinces? Are we ready to share one of the most precious little gems of country living with our city slicker friends? Do we really have to tell them about the Fermes Auberges?

Fermes Auberges are ‘home industry’ restaurants that one finds in several of France’s provinces. They can have accommodation, but the emphasis remains on the restaurant side of the business. The rule is that at least 50% of everything that is served in the restaurant has to be home-grown and produced – agriculture being their first activity and the restaurant with their own produce the second. So it is that the Fermes Auberges in the Charente serve mainly goat products and wine, in Brittany the speciality is sea food and in the Pays Basque the auberge menu will feature pork.

Here in the Aquitaine, and in particular the Dordogne, we are fortunate to have several excellent fermes auberges. There is even more than one that sports an air strip for those gourmands from Paris and Marseilles with private planes who have a craving for the best foie gras or confit de canard.

But seeing as I am letting the cat out of the bag – or the duck out of the tree, allow me to invite you to one of my very favourite fermes auberges. It is up in the hills, 2.5 km behind Trémolat, on the Chemin de Crète, and called Les Truffières.

Yanick -- larger than life, artist, passionate about life and love and his work, best described as a man full of bonhomie, and Lyzianne -- outgoing, highly qualified and competent, vivacious, bubbling with enjoyment and enthusiasm for her trade, welcome you at the door like old friends.

The proud owners of Les Truffieres
A few years ago they both decided to leave the city where Yanick was in great demand as an interior architect and Lyzianne worked as a medical secretary, and they moved to this 5 hectare farm where they converted their old tobacco drying shed into a restaurant – the interior of which would make the Michelin Three Stars salivate with envy. While Yanick was creating the perfect environment for their venture, Lyzianne went off to get her Diploma in Agriculture at the Lycée Agricole de Coulounieix-Chamiers, and three years ago they started their business.

Today they work side by side with apparent ease and pleasure, Lyzianne taking care of the raising, gavage or feeding, and slaughtering of the ducks and chickens, and her share of the meal preparation, whilst Yanick takes care of his very interesting and original selection of home made aperitifs and digestifs, as well as the front of the house and any cooking that is done in the large fireplace in the restaurant. They are both excellent cooks-- their foie gras demi-cuit is the best I have yet tasted and as for Yanick’s magret de canard, sprinkled with coarse salt and a few herbs and done in strips over the open wood fire – well, my mouth is watering as I write this. If you are lucky, you will also be offered a paper thin sliver or two of their magret de canard séché or salt dried ducks’ breast with you aperitif before sitting down to your meal.

Anyone who has qualms about eating foie gras, need not be concerned. Listening to Lyzianne speak of her ducks (she raises on average 800 ducks per year) would put your mind at rest. She may have a top scientific qualification, but she prefers to follow the ancient and traditional farming ways and therefore does not practise beak-cutting or spur removal, as she believes that when the birds have freedom to move around in wide open spaces – as they do on their farm, and are not kept enclosed in confined spaces, they will not damage each other with their beaks or their spurs. When the Avian Flu scare hit the Dordogne, theirs was one of the few farms where they -- literally with tears running down their cheeks -- killed 64 of their chickens rather than pump them full of vaccinations and medicines and confine them indoors in too small barns. Thus everything they serve on your plate is 100% organic, 100% natural. And 100% delicious.

The menu typically consists of an aperitif, foie gras with a Monbazillac or sweet wine, a salade de gesiers or a terrine de campagne (or other, depending on the season), a main course of duck, chèvre (goat’s cheese – possibly on toast, grilled with a little drizzle of their own honey), a delicious home made dessert, coffee and a digestif – usually one of Yanick’s own eau de vie. Wine is included as well. A king’s fare for the meagre sum of €22. There are 25 covers, the ferme auberge is open all year round, and booking is essential.

Generally the Fermes Auberges are not widely advertised -- there are a handful of websites on the internet and here and there the local town- or village councils will have a list on their websites, but possibly the reason is that more than any other industry, this is one that advertises itself through word of mouth. Not all of them are as outstanding as Les Truffières, and depending on your taste and preference, certain provinces' auberges' menus may not be to your liking, but one thing is sure though -- when you have had the pleasure of discovering a ferme auberge such as this one and enjoyed the warm hospitality and ambience and sampled their delicious fare, you are not likely to ever regret leaving the "fine dining of the city restaurants" behind!

Photo credits: Sandy McCutcheon



Les Truffières
Yanick et Lyzianne Le Goff
Chemin de Crète
Trémolat
0553 27 30 44
08 75 37 19 56

Nearest Train station: Trémolat 3km
Nearest Airport : Bergerac 30km

Ferme Auberge with landing strip for light aircraft:
Ferme de Rebeyrotte
Rebeyrotte Vicq
0553 61 13 87

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The Dordogne in the doldrums as estate agents wonder if love affair with the British is over

And following on from the previous post, also from The Times of April 12, 2008, Adam Sage in Paris gives a more objective view of the current slump in the Dordogne property market.

Maureen McLeod owns a large, 200-year-old house in a picturesque corner of the Dordogne – the sort of property that British expatriates once rushed to buy. Two years after putting it on the market at €435,000, however, she is still there.

“It’s a beautiful area and a beautiful house and I had someone here looking at it just three weeks ago,” said Mrs McLeod, from Aberdeen. “But because of the British property market and the exchange rate, they didn’t want to go through with the deal.”

Mrs McLeod’s experience is an unwanted novelty for residents of the département of southwest France known as Dordogneshire. The stream of British buyers who sent house prices spiralling upwards has turned into a trickle, prompting some to suggest that Britain’s love affair with the Dordogne may be at an end.

“I used to do 70 per cent of my business with the British – that’s down to 20 per cent at most,” said Alexandra Bonoron, an estate agent in Sarlat.

Vincent Barnérias-Desplas, a local solicitor, said that the end of l’invasion britannique had put the brakes on the market. “I’ve been doing this job for 15 years and it’s the first time that I’ve seen sellers accepting less than they wanted. Prices are coming down by €10,000 here and €20,000 there.”

Mrs Bonoron believes that the fall marks a turning point in Britons’ enthusiasm for the Dordogne, where 25,000 have settled over the past four decades. Many have renovated crumbling cottages and ruined farms with a view to selling them on at a handsome profit. But Mrs Bonoron said that they had driven prices to unrealistic levels and that the bubble had burst. British buyers were looking elsewhere – at cheaper parts of France or at eastern Europe – and the French would replace them only if prices fell.

“The British were infatuated with our region at one time. You had ten customers for every property and they would almost fight among themselves to get it. But that wave is finished. Prices here are 30 per cent above market value and sellers need to accept that.”

She said that 25 estate agents had sprung up in Sarlat to meet demand. “Three have shut recently and two are in receivership.”However, other estate agents said that the slowdown was simply an effect of the sub-prime crisis. Charles Gilloley, who has an agency in Le Bugue, said: “Things have been a bit slow in the past three months but I’m not worried yet – although I might be if it carries on.”

He said that buyers were unable to sell their homes in Britain and had been hit by sterling’s 10 per cent fall against the euro. “They may be holding off, but I don’t think they no longer want to live in this part of France.”

Gordon Hall, a Briton who restores and sells properties in Dordogne, agreed, saying that house prices in rural France would rise, albeit at a slower rate. “It won’t be like it was seven or eight years ago, but there will still be steady growth.”

Mrs McLeod, who put her five-bedroom house in Verteillac on the market when her children grew up, said: “It’s lovely here, I’m in no rush.”

It would, of course be the ideal time now for the young French Bobos from Paris to come down to La France Profonde and come settle in the most beautiful corner of France. Whether this will happen is to be seen, though. What has been happening here for years, as in many beautiful parts of the world, the foreigners have come in with their money and energy and enthusiasm, bought up all the old dilapidated properties and breathed new life into them, as they did to the local economies and communities. But this revival created a false sense of growth: often the workmen who executed the fancy restorations were brought over from Britain -- rather than the new owners using local craftsmen -- with the result that the local labour force had to leave the area to go look for employment elsewhere; often the farms on which the newly renovated properties stand, were allowed to get overgrown, and valuable agricultural land has gone to wrack and ruin; often the newly renovated homes are used for three or four weeks a year and stand empty for the rest -- anything but contributing to the local communities or economies; and often the renovations and restorations, so beautifully executed, have also meant that the properties were way over-capitalised and now completely out of reach for the younger generations of house buyers.
This is a debate that warms up many a Franco-Brit debate here in the Dordogne, and will continue to do so for a long time. We will have to wait and see what happens though -- and rest assured that the Chateau Lalinde Blog will keep you posted about the eventual outcome!

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Are these grapes sour, or are they simply replacing a tongue in the cheek?...........

From time to time one reads an account of and Expat's life in the Dordogne that is not all confit and foie gras, Pecharmant and Monbazillac. But when I came across this little report on the change in tendency aka slowing down of sales of beautiful old restorable Perigourdine homes to disenchanted Brits, I have to admit I was not sure of the intent of the author -- Perhaps it is just that I have always, and no doubt will always fail to grasp the sense of humour of my fellow-Brits........

You tell me what you think.....

From The Times, April 12, 2008
A Vendre : The British who turned the Dordogne into Dordogneshire are leaving for home

For sale: one French département, unexpectedly back on the market after having been occupied by the same nationality for 40 years. Offers incoming purchasers a chance to modernise to their own taste to create a marvellous ambience for family life.

Sale triggered by vendors facing credit crunch back in Britain, putting strain on finances, making it hard to raise mortgages for foreign property purchases, and thus forcing expatriate community to “retournons à nos moutons” (literally, “go home to Morden”). Compounded by frustration that the natives insist on speaking their own language; possibly because even after many decades of tourists addressing them in English, the locals are evidently a bit slow in picking up a foreign tongue - however loudly the English might speak.

Also disenchantment with the local menfolk parading along beaches in Speedos the size of a Post-It note; and German shepherd dogs guarding houses where the Jean-de-Florette-style owners don't even possess a full set of their own teeth, let alone valuables to tempt a burglar; and a nagging unease at taking children afflicted with swimming-related ear infections to be treated by French-style medicine (“Mais comment c'est possible, Monsieur le Docteur, qu'un suppositoire que vous voulez introduire dans la derrière de mon fils va améliorer un mal dans une oreille?”).

The Brits depart relieved that they will never again be embarrassingly caught out offering a double-cheek kiss to a native who kisses three times, or cheek-kissing three times with a diehard four-cheeker. Or be baffled by how much to tip, even though the bill says “service compris”.

Meanwhile, British males take home their regret that the local girls, always sniggering at their ankle-socks-with-sandals, never invited them to dabble in that legendary French cinq-à-sept pastime of “mouchoir-pouchoir” (or “hanky-panky”).

Like Samuel Johnson, Brits have decided that “what I gained by being in France was learning to be better satisfied with my own country.” So “à tout a l'heure” (or, “What a wake-up call!”).

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Chateau Lalinde in Italian!

Diversity Rocks!
Taking a quick glance at my blog readership, I noticed that a reader in Milano, Italy had spent some considerable time reading the Chateau Lalinde Blog earlier today. I went to look what it was that interested this reader -- and to my surprise found my blog in Italian! (an exerpt below)
I am not sure how it works, but when I find out, will definitely let you know how you too can read the Chateau Lalinde Blog in your own language!

And as for my reader in Milano -- perhaps you could let us know what you do to read the entire blog in Italian? Also, whether the translation is a good one? We would love to hear from you!



Domenica, giugno 03, 2007
Bellissimi giardini in Aquitania

Uno dei tanti piaceri della vita in Francia o di venire qui in vacanza, noleggio o di un castello gite passare del tempo e scoprire le belle Dordogna, è in visita il magnifico giardino della regione. Sia che si tratti di giardini formali, come ad esempio a Marqueyssac, o il giardino di un amico in una casa privata, come ad esempio Josette giardino in Couze, questo è un amante giardino paradiso e la scelta diffusa.
Questo fine settimana, per la terza volta, La Chartreuse du Colombier, vicino Paunat aperto i loro giardini per i visitatori. " Un chartreuse è "non una casa padronale, né una casa, ma qualcosa tra - un luogo in cui sognare e ricordare, a vivere bene e di avere armonioso conversazioni con gli amici. Spesso al suo interno un piccione coop, circondato da vigneti, terrazze, un walled garden - il luogo ideale in cui praticare il molto bene - e raffinata arte di vivere ..... " -- Questo è il modo Christiane de Nicolay-Mazery descrive un Chartreuse, e in particolare La Chartreuse du Colombier, nel suo libro "Maison de famille, il tempo retrouve".
Una mappa di tutti i giardini si può visitare in Aquitania.




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Orientamento delocalizzazione in Francia


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Racetrack plan threatens quiet life in France

Photo Credit The Nontron region. Nontron is also famous for its excellent knives
The Times has picked up on a story which has been on everyone's lips here in the beautiful Dordogne Perigord.

Up to now, every attempt to get permission to develop the track, has failed, but according to The Times Online "French officials are set to rule on the proposal by David Brooker-Carey, a British businessman with a history degree from Oxford, for a vintage car centre on his 85-hectare estate in Périgord Limousin regional park. “The debate is very tough, particularly amongst the English residents here,” said Philippe de Courcel, mayor of Saint Félix de Mareuil, a neighbouring village. “Families are even falling out over this.”
Locals believe tranquility of the Dordogne will be ruined by the car-racing circuit but the Briton behind it says that much-needed jobs will be created

Yesterday, British expatriates swapped their wine glasses for banners to join a protest against plans by a wealthy Oxford graduate to build a vintage car-racing circuit in the grounds of his mansion in the Dordogne. Almost 500 British and French demonstrators crowded into the village of Nontron on Saturday to denounce a “monstrous” project that they claim would shatter their idyllic corner of southwest France.

Mr Brooker-Carey, who made his fortune in aluminium smelting, and Sandra, his wife, a property developer, want to build a 4.6kilometre (3mile) circuit with 24 pit garages and 675 loudspeakers. The scheme also includes a luxury hotel, a spa, a restaurant, a 30-metre swimming pool, an equestrian centre and what is described as the Living Museum of the History of the Automobile.
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The couple say that the centre will attract up to 40,000 visitors a year and create 35 full-time jobs in an area where the unemployment rate is more than 10 per cent. “It is a unique concept . . . which will attract collectors of historic vehicles and those passionate with this sport,” they say on their website.

Heaven forbid!

Their opponents include many Britons who crossed the Channel to enjoy the peace and beauty of the Dordogne. “It’s outrageous that this is even being contemplated,” said Crispin Hills, a Londoner who bought a house about a mile from the planned circuit seven years ago. “It’s a beautiful place and it seems ridiculous to build something like this on it.”

Desmond Kime, a retired biologist, said that the circuit would also threaten “an extremely biodiverse area” that was home to 46 endangered species, including the rare European mink. He said that the pollution, the noise and the felling of 40 hectares of woods to create the racetrack were incompatible with the park in which Mr and Mrs Brooker-Carey live. “The whole thing is monstrous,” he said.




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A few of the Summer Events in Dordogne Perigord Noir

June
23 VEZAC : Vide grenier stade des Magnanas

July
1 LA ROQUE GAGEAC : Méchoui sous la Halle
15 LA ROQUE GAGEAC : Marché nocturne des Métiers d’Art et de Tradition, sous la halle
23 VITRAC : Marché nocturne des Métiers d’Art et de Tradition

August
4 CARSAC-AILLAC : Marché nocturne des Métiers d’Art et de Tradition, sous la halle
5 LA ROQUE GAGEAC : Fête votive, feux d’artifice.
15 BEYNAC ET CAZENAC : Marché nocturne des Métiers d’Art et de Tradition, sous la halle.
15 BEYNAC ET CAZENAC : Fête votive, feux d’artifice.
End of August LA ROQUE GAGEAC : Marché des Gourmands et des Gourmets.


September
Mid-September, COMMUNAUTE DE COMMUNES : Journées Européennes du Patrimoine

Night-time events and displays in Dordogne Perigord Noir

Discover the beautiful villages of the region: A la découverte d'un des Plus Beaux Villages de France. Durée : environ 1 heure.
From mid-June to mid-September, Wednesdays at 21h30

The Gardens of Marqueyssac
July and August, every Thursday evening, candle-lit visits until midnight.

La Roque-Gageac
July and August, every Wednesday evening: pétanque.


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A little wisdom for the day...

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Dordogne - the 'New' Tuscany - A Heaven for Walkers, Hikers, Cyclists, riders, equestrians, and Canoe-ists

Tuscany? Been there? Done that? Tired of the overcrowded walking routes and paths, the now-touristy and commercialised little villages in the hills that were once so attractive to the walkers, hikers and cyclists?
Then the Dordogne is your answer this year.
When looking at the diary for walkers, hikers and cyclists or horse back riders-- and even for those who love to take to the water in canoes and kayaks and explore the magnificent scenery from the this unique vantage point, then you need look no further than the beautiful Southwest of France: The Dordogne Perigord has everything and more to offer those who are looking for something a little extra for their holidays this summer -- and for those who love the idea of an adventure holiday or an activity holiday or a journey of discovery on horseback.

Here are some of the many well-organised and very attractive walks and rides. -- Although most of these routes accessible at any time, some of them include very interesting and worth-seeing areas that are normally not open to the public and some of them have an accompanying guide to inform the walkers about the fascinating local history, fauna or flora. Most of the walks are suitable for children as well. Some are themed around a specific event or feature of the area. The outings are also organised in such a way that you do them at your own pace and in your own way, unencumbered by crowds of people, even though there are facilities and refreshments organised on the way for those who are not used to the more strenuous or arduous exercise. --- And with most of them you will be either sent on your way or welcomed back to the finishing point with a special glass of something delicious.


Outings for Walkers/Hikers:
May 2008
11 Ladornac-Terrasson
18 Campgnac Sarlat
18 Faux
18 Belves
24 Biron
25 Campagne/Saint Cyprien
26 Tremolat
31 Grignols/ Jaure
31 Prats du Perigord

June 2008
01 Bourdeilles
01 Mrcillac-Sarlat
07 Cales
08 Eymet
08 Perigeux
14 Brantome
15 Meyrals
21 Bourdeilles
22 Azerat
28 Valojoux

July 2006
03 Fleix
12 Saint Martin l'Astier
13 Bourrou
13 Montpon
14 Saint Martin de Riberac
16 Saint Pardoux la Riviere
18 La Roche Chalais
20 Lalinde
22 Nontron
22 Domme
24 Saint Meard de Gurcon
27 Orliaguet/ Simeyrols
31 La Tour Blance

August 2008
01 Sigoules Monbos
03 Gadlan
07 Saint Antoine de Breuilh
08 Saint Romain Saint Clement
09 Pezuls (evening walk)
09 Saussinac
12 Jayac
15 La Rochebeaucourt
24 Boulouneix
30 Parcoul
31 Excideuil

September 2008
06 Varaignes
13 Monpazier
14 La Coquille
14 Trelissac
14 Piegut


Equestrian Outings
18/05 Lempzours
25/05 Abjat sur Bandiat
01/06 Saint Sauveur de Bergerac
08/06 Saint Felix de Reilhac
22/06 Lempzours
05/07 Belves
13/07 Bourrou
20/07 Lalinde
27/07 Saint Sauveur de Bergerac
27/07 Castelnaud la Chapelle
17/08 Saint Sauveur de Bergerac
13/09 Castelnaud la Chapelle
21/09 Lempzours

Cycling
24/05 Biron
25/05 Abjat sur Bandiat
01/06 Saint Laurent des hommes
07/06 Marcillac Sarlat
12/07 Saint Martin l'Astier
13/07 Bourrou
20/07 Lalinde
0/08 Parcoul
14/09 Perigeux
14/09 Piegut


Evening or Night Walks
24/05 Biron
18/07 La Roche Chalais
20/7 Lalinde
23/07 Beaumont
24/07 Saint Meard de Gurcon
09/08 Pezuls
12/08 Jayac
12/08 Beaumont
13/09 Monpazier


A feast for the active and energetic of body, spirit and mind!
If you are going to be anywhere in the area during the next few months, be sure to make a note of the outings near there. And if you would like more details about any of these mentioned outings, do not hesitate to let me know -- by clicking on the 'Comment' below and I shall provide all the details and information you need.

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USA losing stature with Bordeaux wine producers

Earlier this month AFP reported on the wine primeur week in Bordeaux.
This is what they reported:
Fewer US buyers than usual turned up in Bordeaux this week for wine primeur week -- when buyers and critics taste the latest wine harvest -- but producers surprisingly are not too concerned.
"America is not the world, it is a bit bigger than that," said Patrick Maroteaux, president of the Union des Grands Cru de Bordeaux, organiser of the annual primeur tastings, which take place six months after the harvest and two years before bottling.
"Europe is a significant market, as is Asia," he said.
Going one step beyond their oft repeated complaint that Americans only buy primeurs in top quality speculative years, so more for profit than drinking, producers now happily say they are no longer dependant on the US market. "It has happened in about the last two years, on the good side people realised there were new customers from Asia, Russia and India," said Didier Marcelis a Bordeaux producer at a tasting in St Emilion on Monday.
"And on the other side there has been the euro dollar problem. So we started realizing we shouldn't rely on the Americans," said Marcelis, who spent 20 years working for IBM and Cisco before buying Chateau Serilhan in Bordeaux's St Estephe region in 2003. "It is not complicated though, it is just Darwinism."
Dramatic changes in consumption patterns are clear in emerging markets.
In 2007, Bordeaux exported 43,000 hectolitres to China, 82 percent more than in 2006. That volume was worth 45 million euros (70 million dollars), an increase of 158 percent.
One Chinese buyer at the Monday tasting, Steven Lu, said he would be buying about double what he bought last year, of both un-bottled primeurs for stock, and bottled wine for the Olympics. Lu, who has a small import business selling to upmarket hotels and restaurants, as well as private clients, says his customer list has doubled in the last two years.
In 2007, Bordeaux also exported 38,500 hectolitres to South Korea, an increase of 40 percent for a value of 29 million euros, up 66 percent, while Singapore got 15,000 hectolitres, a 94 percent increase, worth 23.5 million euro, up 33 percent.
By comparison wine exports to America in 2007 were down nine percent in value, albeit for a more significant sum of 196 million euros.
The US market is driven by point scores though, so a lot will depend on those of US critic Robert Parker, who is in Bordeaux this week to taste both the 2007 vintage, and re-taste the now bottled 2005s.
"If I get a good Parker score, which makes it so easy to sell my wines, that is great," said Marcelis. However if he gets a bad one, or none, sales to the US are very difficult.
Parker's points will not be available for two to three months, and the majority of Bordeaux primeur producers will wait till after their publication to release their prices. So although the Bordelaise may talk about America not being a make or break market any more, it would be unimaginable for them to release prices before the make or break scores of this particular American are published.
As the figures show though, emerging markets on their own will not replace America, which is set to overtake France as the world's number one consumers of wine, per person per head, in the next year or two. So hopes are also high for European and domestic French buyers, particularly those from the supermarkets.
Fabrice Matysiak, a buyer for Auchan, one of France's top three supermarkets, described 2007 as interesting. "We came with lead boots to find, yes some bad wines, but some good ones too," he said. "But they will have to lower their prices from the 2006 vintage," he said, admitting freely that this was inevitably round one of negotiations.
There are producers of course who have welcomed US buyers already this week, and they prefer to say that in 2007, as in 2004 and 2001, all less than great vintages, one sees fewer but better buyers.
Asked his opinion about US markets this year, US-born Bordeaux-based wine merchant Jeffrey Davies put it more straightforwardly. "Frankly, I would imagine that in America people will be reaching for the vodka, rather than the Lafite right now," he said.




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